Monday, May 21, 2012

THE BICYCLE TRIP

It all began last year when we were in Lyon…David and Roger, our friend and landlord, decided it would be great to bicycle from Lyon to the Mediterranean.  (Actually, to avoid Lyon traffic, they were talking about taking the train a few miles south to Vienne and continuing south from there.) 

For those of you who may not know, France is a very bicycle-friendly place with lots of dedicated bike paths.  And, a bicycle club had published a packet of day-by-day routes from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean, passing through Lyon, complete with detailed instructions, maps, mileage, cautions, etc.  And, David had purchased the packet.
The Happy Duo in a recent picture.
Anyway, rental bicycles were scoped out along with bags to hold belongings, appropriate clothing and other items.  They were pretty much ready to go.  Then Roger got sick, and we left France, and that was that.
In anticipation of our return to Lyon this April, the trip was resurrected.  In fact it had grown from the two riders to a possible six.  Two dropped out, and then there were four: Roger, David, Tony, and Pascal (“the lads”, as Roger calls them).  The route, equipment, clothing, etc., and departure date were set.  The plan was to leave the morning of Saturday, April 28th.   Then the winds came.  We’re not talking about balmy breezes; we’re talking about gusts of 60 mph against the riders.  And, the rain didn’t help either.  All agreed to postpone the trip.

Muguets and May Day

May Day is a HUGE holiday in France.  It's their Labor Day, and pretty much everything is closed - including all public transportation.  (The cab drivers must love May Day!) 

We walked the mile and a half or so to Dominique and Roger's and spent most of the day with them.  Roger, David, and Dominique's brother, Gerard, went for a long bike ride around town while Dominique and Anna, accompanied by Gerard's little dog, took a long walk and wandered through a large market in a near-by square.  It was quite a large market with everything imaginable -  vegetables, cheeses, meats (cooked and raw), sausages, clothing and other textile items, and flowers and plants.  I'm sure I must be leaving out something.  Anna got a table cloth with a Provence design, and Dominique bought some Muguets at a flower stall.

Muguets are what we Americans call Lilly of the Valley.  They are traditionally purchased on May Day - either as cut flowers or as plants.  It is considered good luck both to give and to receive them.  And, they were available on street corners, at the market, in flower shops, in grocery stores, pretty much everywhere.  It's really a lovely tradition.  The plants Dominique got at the market are especially nice.  Here's a picture of the one she gave Anna.

After dinner and more conversation, it was time to walk back to our apartment.  Nothing like a nice, long walk to help one appreciate Lyon's great public transportation system!

Friday, May 4, 2012

AubrysInFrance 2012 - 1st posting

Since we are only going to be here for three months, we hadn't really planned to do a blog.  But, then people started asking if we would be doing one.  So....we will be doing a blog - just not as "religiously" as last trip's.

For those of you who don't know, we left Seattle on April 17th and are spending three months back in Lyon.  What's magic about three months?  Well, any more than that requires a visa, carte de sejour, special medical insurance, lots of paper work, a sizeable amount of euros, etc. etc.

We are back in the same neighborhood and apartment.  In many ways it feels like our second home.  We have enjoyed seeing many of our Lyon friends, and checking in at the boulangerie across the street and at AVF.  We both really love Lyon!

So what's on the agenda for this trip? 
  • Well, David, Roger, and a few other gentlemen are embarking on a bicycle trip down the Rhone River valley on the 12th.  Their goal is to end up in the Med - we'll see.  David is calling it the "Geriatric Tour de France." 
  • Anna, with David's help, has been researching her grandfather's WWI service and hopes to visit the area where he saw action in the Meuse-Argonne Offensive and received his Purple Heart.
  • Lots of "day trips" to some of the many interesting places around here.  And, a few longer jaunts to explore new places.
We've also enjoyed dinner with our Seatle friends, Bob and Sally, during their first trip to Lyon.  They came here because we kept talking about what a great place it is, and they assured us that they enjoyed their stay in spite of the less than superlative weather.

And, this weekend our friend and bridge buddy, David, will be here on business and is managing to carve out some time for us.  His daughter was a guest of ours last time we were here, and he's heard about the pastries at the boulangerie so that is definitely on the "to do" list.

So there you have it.  A long-winded introduction to the AubrysInFrance 2012 edition.  More to come.

Saturday, March 31, 2012

What Anna will miss about France

Well, you certainly can't say we've rushed into finishing off this blog! We've been home since late July (it's now March 31st), and we're getting ready to leave for Lyon again in 17 days. Maybe we just didn't want to admit our year in France was over?

 So what will I (have I) missed most?  Here’s my list in no particular order.

AVF
This organization was truly a Godsend! We met wonderful people through it, we went to places we would not have seen, and we enjoyed social events we would never have been able to attend. And, we definitely gained a deeper appreciation for Lyon, France, the French language, culture, and history through this wonderful organization. I've included reminders of some of the AVF events below.

The proprietor of a winery in Beaujolais where we enjoyed tasting his wines and sampling his wife's fine cooking.

 
Scene from cruise on the Saone River.

End of the year lunch for our "Discover France Class" at Andrée-Anne's

David and me at the end of the year gala.

 

Our Friends

We met so many wonderful, friendly, generous people and made so many new friends that I know I’d be sure to leave some out if I tried to list them all.  These people really were the ones that made our year in France such a joy!  Here are just a few of them.
Phillipe & Angeline owners of our favorite boulangerie who were great hosts and went on to become friends.

Dominique and Roger, who started out as "just" our landlords became great friends.
The History

For someone who has spent her whole life in the US, and on the West Coast at that, being immersed in the history of Lyon and of France was almost overwhelming.  I remember when David and I decided to limit our weekend excursions to places dating back to around 12th or 13th century or earlier – not the “recent stuff.”   I’ve always enjoying studying history, and experiencing it “up close and personal” was incredible.  Here are just a very few of the places and things we saw.
The clocher at Cluny

The medieval village of Cremieu


Sitting in a Roman amphiteater in Lyon

The Food

It would be impossible to mention France without mentioning food!  First of all, there is the amazing variety of fresh fruits and vegetables available both in “supermarchés” and in Farmers’ Markets.  Then there’s the pastries…maybe there’s a difference in the flour and/or butter that makes the pastries so much better than anything we have at home?  And, we were continually pleased to find small “mom and pop” restaurants and cafes, both in Lyon or elsewhere that served absolutely delicious meals.  My very favorite being the lunch with had in the small village Solutré Pouilly; it was absolutely the best meal I’ve ever had.  Also, meals are NEVER rushed.  No waiter will ever bring you your bill unless you ask for it; you could literally sit there nursing your coffee for hours if you wanted to!  Then there are meals we ate as guests in peoples’ homes – there was always so much wonderfully food, and the meals typically lasted for hours.  One does NOT rush the enjoyment of a meal and the conversations that accompany it.    (I won’t mention the wine since I know David has covered it in detail.)

My lunch in Solutré-Pouilly - the only meal I took a picture of.


Estelle and Her Family

I really enjoyed lunches and shopping with Estelle, our French daughter!  It’s amazing how it seems no time has passed when we first see her, although there have been years between our visits.  She has become a part of our family, and we love her very much.  We also got to know her family better and enjoyed their company. Laurent, her husband, was always the perfect host and made us feel so welcome!  We had several, very enjoyable, meals with Estelle, Laurent and their boys.  And, then there was Christmas when Chantal, Estelle’s mother, included us in the family Christmas celebration and meal.  What warm, wonderful people!
A "simple French lunch" at Estelle and Laurent's.

Family Christmas at Chantal's.


I know I’m sure to think of something I should have included, but it’s come time to stop and get ready for our next trip.

Thursday, March 29, 2012

What David Will Miss About France

The Weather – late summer, early spring, SUN a lot of the time.  All driven home by comparing with Kirkland’s weather.  We had many sunny days during the winter when it was great to be out and about.  Winter temperatures are about the same as Kirkland, with the exception of many sunny days in the 50s, making it easy to be outside.  This past spring, we’ve had many sunny days in the seventies, excellent for a leisurely lunch by the river or at a sidewalk café.  When one is working for a living, especially inside, it’s a bit easier to ignore the weather; when one is at leisure in terms of one’s daily activities, unless your preferred activity is indoors, poor weather begins to impact one’s quality of life.  As I write this, we have gone from a bit muggy 80 degrees to a thunderstorm with downpours.  Last night [6/23] was the 30th annual Fête de Musique, with musical acts both local and international at outdoor venues all over the city - most were rained out by another thunderstorm.  My shoes are still wet; Anna’s umbrella is destroyed.   Nothing’s perfect.

The people – most are open, friendly, and helpful, even including highway toll-takers.  The bar owner down the street, where we have had drinks maybe three times, stopped me the other day and said to be sure to let him know if we need anything or needed help with anything.  The folks at the vienoisserie across the street – hard-working, pleasant, fun, friendly – embodying everything you would want in a neighborhood business.

Our French daughter Estelle and family – husband Laurent and two boys, Paul and Victor.  We had such fun with them – dinners, family celebrations, barbeques, lunches with Estelle.  They welcomed us into their home and busy lives, providing a familiar touchstone around which we experienced the best that France and Lyon had to offer.

The public transportation system – clean, quiet, efficient.  By US standards, expensive for short trips, but no zone charges.   An interconnecting very frequent system of subways, buses, and tramways make it easy to get around the city, and to go to and from the city and the surrounding towns

French women – it’s not that all are gorgeous; it’s that if 5-10% of American women look good and dress fashionably on an every-day basis, then 15-20% of French women do.  You never see French men or women in public in sweats.    The French government has had a public education program in place regarding nutrition and balanced diets since about the 1920s. Recently, in response to a thickening of French waistlines, an exercise component has been added to the message. See mangerbouger.fr 

French wines – they are not better than American wines, but very often they are better values.  No doubt this is partly because of the tax structures.  Alcoholic beverages are heavily taxed in the US.  French wines typically have been lighter and lower in alcohol than corresponding American wines.  This is changing since world tastes in wine appear to be evolving towards the American and Australian models.  This is a shame in some ways because lower-alcohol wines allow one to have a bottle at dinner and still be able to navigate.  It’s also interesting to note which regions are evolving rapidly towards this international style, and which are still making much of their wines in the old style.  Bourgogne [Burgundy] appears to be the slowest to change, especially in the reds.  It is more difficult to get an interesting red wine from Bourgogne for a reasonable or even low, price than in the other prominent regions.  Bordeaux, the Rhone, and Provence are all producing excellent reds for 5-10 Euros or less.  I have paid 25 Euros for an ordinary red from Bourgogne, but we consistently buy really excellent Bordeaux for less than 5 Euros.

The number of people walking, biking, skating, or riding scooters about the city.  American cities would kill for this kind of energy and activity on city streets.  Why the difference – custom largely, reinforced by the fact most French live in relatively small apartments, gasoline costs about $8 per gallon, and public transportation is easy.

French food – cooking and presentation.  We’ve mentioned in many blog posts how amazing meals can be had at small cafes in small towns for reasonable prices.

The vibrant life still present in so many small French towns and villages.  They are having the same problems with migration to the cities with the negative impact on the small shops, but not to the extent where small towns have no retail businesses, as in the US.

Typical Weather
What I will not miss –less effort to efface graffiti; more trash on the streets, lack of a yard to work in; lack of a car [occasionally]; family and friends at home; no Rotary meetings.
Our Appartment is to the Left of Le Crayon [The Pencil]

Another Beautiful Day

Adventures on the High Seas

The last leg of our Great Adventure was about to begin – the trip home.  David wanted somehow for it to be memorable and hit upon the idea of coming home by ship.  He also has always wanted to cross the Atlantic by ‘Ocean Liner’ and thought it would be the perfect way to end our magical year in France.  He was concerned that the cost would be prohibitive, but, lo and behold, Cunard was having a special deal for West Coast residents.  Through a travel agent as opposed to going through Cunard, we got a suite on the Queen Mary II with sliding glass doors and a private deck for about 45% less.  For the two of us, including meals and six nights on board, the cost was about $3100.  Admittedly, we still had to fly home from New York, but we thought it was a reasonable deal.

What we found on board was even better than we had hoped – we were assigned a table for dinner with a congenial group – all Americans as it turned out, the sea was as smooth as glass the whole time, the food and service were excellent, and there were numerous activities of various types that we could avail ourselves of if we wished.  Plus, contrary to David’s fears, the ship was not a floating old-folk’s home.  And as an added attraction, also on board was Dame Judy Dench, the British actress.  [We did not sight her, but some of our table-mates did.]
So what did we do with our time?

We watched a couple of performances by RADA, the Royal Academy of Dramatic Arts.  We saw condensed versions of both Hamlet and Canterbury Tales – both very well done and very entertaining.
We attended a series of talks by Lord Howe of Aberavon, QC, who had been Deputy Prime Minister, Foreign Secretary, and Chancellor of the Exchequer under Margaret Thatcher.  The talks were extremely informative and entertaining as Lord Howe offered information and insights into the Thatcher Government, the structure and reform of the House of Lords, British and European politics of the period, and the breakup of the Soviet Union.  Included in Lord Howe’s accomplishments were taking a leading role in the drafting of a new constitution for the Ukraine, and the structuring of laws for the European Community that attempted to create a level playing field for the member states whose laws were derived from very different sets of traditions.

In between cultural pursuits we explored this enormous ship, watched dolphins, saw an occasional ship, and met and talked with people from many different places.
Anna on deck in breeze
Anna Getting the Kind of Service She Expects
There are Dolphins There Somewhere!

The Band that Welcomed Us All Aboard
Our Dinner Table Mates
Upon Arrival in New York

The toughest part of the trip was getting up at about 5:30 the last morning so we could see the Statue of Liberty upon our arrival.  Luckily it was on our side of the ship and we could go back to bed for an hour or two.

Monday, October 24, 2011

The quick London Visit, or dodging raindrops for four days, or, this is what I don’t like about weather back home.

We got spoiled in Lyon in so many ways – food, wine, people, no responsibilities, and SUNSHINE – LOTS OF IT.

We decided to come home via London and figured that late mid-July would certainly have reliable weather.  WRONG!  It rained all four days we were there!   Yes, we had a few sunbreaks, as you will see, but it seemed like whenever we were out walking it was raining.  We had planned on walking around a lot and seeing the sights.  We saw some things, as Anna has mentioned, but not as much as we wanted.  We spent a day in the British Museum and had some nice Pub meals in the afternoon, but we spent a lot of time in doorways dodging rain.
St Paul's famous dome
We did manage to spend some time at St. Paul’s, the iconic Wren church.  John Donne was Dean there among others – there are plaques and statues and memorials to everyone from Donne to Billy Fiske, an Olympic Gold Medalist in the Bobsled, and the first American volunteer pilot killed in the Battle of Britain.  It is a magnificent edifice, and as luck would have it, there was a service starting right under the famous dome just as we arrived so Anna found a seat and even took Communion.  Meanwhile David oriented himself to some of the points of interest in the church so that he could help Anna see the highlights.







Dr. Johnson's home from 1748 to 1959
We also managed to find Samuel Johnson’s London house which was open for visits.  This is where he wrote most of his famous dictionary.  As mentioned earlier, Anna is a particular Johnson fan, so this was a real pilgrimage for her. 



David had always wanted to take a trans-Atlantic liner voyage, and what better way to fulfill this dream than on the Queen Mary II!
To get to the Queen Mary, we had to make our way to Southampton, the famous port city where the RMS Titanic set sail on her first and only voyage.  We had obtained tickets for the train from Waterloo Station, a few miles from our apartment.  David wrestled our luggage, including two bags at just over 50 pounds, down four flights of stairs.  He flagged down a cab and we set of for the station.  Trains run frequently, so all we had to do was be in Southampton by about 2PM.  Here we ran into our first and only real glitch of our entire year.  We had confirming emails with reference numbers, but no one had any record of tickets for us.  They were polite, helpful, consulted with other folks, but in the end, we bought another set of tickets.  [We have since managed to get a partial refund from British Rail, plus our account was credited by our credit card company.]
Anna waiting to board the QMII
Upon arrival in Southampton, we had a short cab ride through the historic port city to the docks where we patiently queued-up to wait for our numbers to be called and to go through security.  One nice thing, our luggage was handed over on the dock, to magically appear later at out stateroom.  There was a snack bar and plenty of free magazines in the terminal, so we relaxed for a while.  One interesting note – prominently featured on the cover of one of the available magazines was Kate Winslett – we hoped this was not an omen!