AubrysInFrance: Fete des Lumieres

In 1643 Lyon’s city council feared the spread of the plague to Lyon, dedicated the city to the Virgin Mary, and resolved to walk up Fourviere hill to the chapel every year if she protected Lyon from the plague. Well, Lyon remained untouched by the plague, and every December 8th people make the pilgrimage up the switchbacks on Fourviere hill to the chapel.

Through the years the chapel was enlarged, and, in 1852, it received a bell-tower. A guilded statue of the Virgin was placed on top of the bell tower on December 8th of that year. The Archbishop of Lyon blessed the statue, and there were to be illuminations in celebration that evening. However, a rain storm hit, and the religious authorities decided to cancel the festival. That’s when the people of Lyon took over. Starting at 6pm, individuals began to place lit votive candles in their windows, and by 8pm the entire city was illuminated. People went into the streets to celebrate and were moved by the strength and spontaneity of the community feeling. This tradition continues on the evening of December 8th to this day. Our landlady and Estelle both loaned us candle holders, and every store around had bags of votive candles for sale. So we, too, had lit votive candles on our window sills facing the street. The effect is quite impressive - it almost looks like people have illuminated strings of pearls in their windows and there is a carnival atmosphere in the streets.

Through the years the celebration began to take a more organized structure. Church dignitaries now lead torch light ascents of Forviere hill each December 8th, and the City of Lyon produces the “Fete des Lumieres” which starts December 8th and ends the 11th. Here are some stats to give you an idea what it has become:

• 4 million visitors

• 80 light projects (see some examples below)

• 8 million votive candles sold in Greater Lyon

• 3.5 million people use public transportation to get around to the displays (rides are free on the 8th, and one can purchase a pass that covers unlimited transportation for each of the other nights)

• City hotels, B&Bs, etc. are full for the 4 days of the Fete

• Bars and restaurants have three times as much business as normal

• There are 400,000 programs broadcast on 14 TV stations, more than 250 newspaper articles, and 11 radio stations involved

• The TGV (fast train) even offered special rates so that folks from Paris could come to Lyon for a few hours and then zip home

There is a fireworks display on the 8th that we were able to enjoy seeing and hearing from our living room. And, there are various lighting displays throughout the city for all the nights of the Fete. The streets are filled with people enjoying the displays and festive atmosphere each night of the Fete. Here are some pictures to give you an idea.