AubrysInFrance: The Beautiful, Medieval Village of Annecy (and a little French history)

If it weren’t for Calvinism, Annecy might not be the lovely town it is today. Yes, that is an odd thing to say about a place that has been resolutely Catholic for centuries, but it’s true. In fact Annecy became such an important religious center, that some historians called it “The Rome of Savoie.” But, we’re getting a bit ahead of ourselves. Let’s back up and give a little history of the place.

Here’s a “Readers’ Digest condensed version” …

• Annecy is located on a rather picturesque lake, fittingly called “Lake Annecy” and the Thiou River.

Lakeside park - packed with people. (Roller blading, biking, strolling, or paddling around in small boats, and children digging in sand, playing at the playground or riding the Merry-Go-Round.

Another view of the park and lake - note the mountain backdrop in the picture. Beautiful - isn't it?

• Remnants of a lakeside village dating back to around 3,000BC have been found in Annecy-le-Vieux (Old Annecy).

• The Romans moved in and soon trading routes to Faverges, Aix Les Bains, and Geneva converged at Annecy. It became a village (named Boutae) of about 2,000 people and had its own Forum, Temple, and Thermal Baths. Most of the inhabitants of Boutae left in the 6th century.

• There were a number of occupations of the site from the 12th century on. (“New Annecy” in mentioned in a text dated 1107.) Because of its location on the banks of the Thiou at the lake mouth, the site was recognized as being in an advantageous position controlling the north-south axis for traders, armies, various other friendly and unfriendly folks. From this point on, the medieval town of Annecy was built on both sides of the river. The town was protected by fortifications that would eventually become a castle.

• The town got a big boost when the Count of Geneva fled Geneva (disputes with the Bishops) and established his residence in Annecy and started building a castle. The Geneva family died out in 1394 with the death of Robert of Geneva (also “anti-Pope” Clement VII for those of you keeping track of that stuff).

Here are two views inside the castle.

• Then came the Dukes of Savoy. In 1401, Amadeus VIII (there will be a quiz at the end!) established the Savoyard state that included the County of Geneva and Annecy. The Savoy family became influential and powerful, which gave Annecy a boost.

• So, back to Annecy and the Catholic Church…. The Bishop of Geneva decided to leave town after the Protestant Reformation in 1535 and moved to Annecy. Several religious communities followed him and Annecy became an important religious center, “The Rome of Savoy.” This led to a “golden age” and the construction of many of the lovely, historic buildings we enjoy today.

Some of the lovely, old houses still in use today.

Two views of the river going through town and some of the picturesque bridges.

Today Annecy is recognized as one of the most beautiful and charming cities in France. We were told by the owners of our favorite boulangerie that we definitely should go there, and all the other French people we have mentioned it to get dreamy smiles on their faces and talk about how lovely it is. And so…we took a “day trip” to Annecy. We had lunch, walked along the lake and around the old part of town, and made a quick tour of the castle. But, we have much, much more to see, and hope to return to continue our exploration of the lovely city.

River with old buildings and bridges - and LOTS of people!