Back in Lovely Lyon

Good Grief!  It's hard to imagine that we’ve been back in Lovely Lyon for over a month and haven’t published a single blog post!  

So, what have we been doing?  Well, here’s a very brief recap of our activities. (You’ll notice that a lot of our activities revolve around food, wine, and friends.)

We arrived in Lyon the evening of April 1^st.  Our good friends, Dominique and Roger invited us over for Easter dinner on April 5^th.  (We were approaching awake and compos mentis by then.)  

On Tuesday, the 7^th we went to see Laurent (at Estelle and Laurent’s home) to retrieve David’s bicycle after Laurent had stored, taken care of it, and even beautifully detailed it during our absence.   (On the way home, David noticed that the electric bike would cut out randomly – more on this in a later post.) 

(For any of you coming into our blog for the first time, Estelle and our daughter participated in an exchange when they were 15 and 16 years old. Since then Estelle has met and married Laurent and had two sons who are now adults. We have been close friends ever since that initial exchange and are considered part of Estelle's extended family and vice versa.  Paul, her elder son, has actually visited us in the US.) 

Okay - back to eating and friends. On Thursday, the 9^th, Anna went over to Dominique’s and had a quick lunch with her.  

Friday, the 10^th, we went to Laurent and Estelle’s to see Paul who was home on leave from the Army until his next training session, and also to enjoy Laurent’s delicious, barbecued lunch and lots and lots of conversation. 

L to R David, Laurent, Paul, Estelle

Then on Monday, the 13^th, we had lunch with Estelle near where she works in Lyon. 

On Wednesday, the 15^th, Dominique and Roger came to our apartment for lunch. On Sunday, the 19^th, we were at Dominique and Roger’s for lunch again.  Then, the next day, Monday, the 20^th, eight of us gathered at a restaurant to celebrate Dominique’s birthday. 

L to R - David, Dominique (the birthday girl), Elizabeth Juvet (in the bike group), Catherine Zervos and her husband Tony (in the bike group), John Robbins (in the bike group), Roger, and Anna.

On Wednesday, the 22^nd, David went to a men’s lunch.  

On Tuesday, the 28^th, Nathalie and Stéphane, our good friends and current landlords, came to dinner at our apartment. The dinner was preceded by a little surprise drama when Nathalie's car's windshield wipers decided to quit working during a heavy rainstorm. The dinner main dish was fortunately one that could just happily continue to simmer until Nathalie and Stéphane were able to arrive.  It was great to see them again!

And, on Thursday the 30^th, we went to the monthly Del Cano lunch. (Del Cano is actually a group of mostly retired Brits who welcomed us into their monthly lunch group years ago.)

Whew!  Guess we were busier that we realized.  However, we didn't ONLY enjoy various meals.  We promise there will be more info in the next posts.

Another Anna Adventure – with a surprise happy ending (warning - this one is kind of long)

 Leaving Lyon is always a little sad.  So many nice folks to say au revoir and à la prochaine fois to.  We were off to Estelle and Laurent’s for hugs and good-byes to them both and to drop off David’s bike to be babysat by Laurent.  David was obviously going to ride his bike so I was going by metro and bus - pas de problème.  We’ve done it many times – a short, easy trip. 

Metro B arriving at San Genis Laval station

The end of the line for the B metro is in Saint Genis Laval and the station is a short bus ride away from Estelle and Laurent’s cul-de-sac.  So, I came out of the metro station and walked over to the #78 bus stop.  But, there was a paper sign where the schedule should be.  My knowledge of French was not up to the wording on the sign, but it was pretty obvious the 78 would not be arriving any time soon.  So, I walked over to the #18 bus stop since it would also get me to Estelle and Laurent’s cul-de-sac entrance.  Hmm.  Looked like the same sign I saw at the #78 stop.  Not good news.  So, I pulled out my phone that I had set up to work in France, and tried to call or text Estelle.  Mysteriously, the phone had decided not to work on anything but WIFI.  Great!  Now what?

Inside the station.

Unfortunately for me, the French have been very efficient in converting their metro stations to totally automated.  Never-the-less, I walked back into the station for inspiration and in search of WIFI.  (Also, because it was nice and cool inside and blazing hot outside.)  I noticed a man at work at a desk in a glassed-in office.  He seemed to be the only other living, breathing person in the station.  So, I knocked on his glass door.  He seemed surprised to have anyone knocking on his door, but he was very gracious and after the obligatory bonjours, asked if he could help me (in French, of course).  I explained my problem, also in French, (with a lot of repetitions of “ne marche pas”).  He explained that those buses weren't working because some bus drivers were on grève (strike). And, there was no public WIFI in the station.  

Then he asked me where I was from and if I would prefer to speak in English.  (Between his English and my French, we actually ended up conversing pretty well in Franglish.) He asked where I was trying to call, and I told him I was trying to reach Estelle or Laurent.  He whipped out his personal phone, asked for a phone number, and dialed Estelle's.  He left a voice mail message, then he handed me the phone and told me to call Estelle to confirm what was going on.  Estelle picked up and said they were wondering what had happened to me, and I said I was sitting in air-conditioned splendor in this kind gentleman’s office.  She said she was working from home and couldn’t leave, but Laurent would be home soon and would rescue me.  The man in the office, and I had a little time to chat a bit.  We talked about where we live.  He was surprised to hear that David and I had actually been to his hometown on one of our exploring adventures.  And, then he said, “see – not all French people are rude!”  I laughed and told him I had honestly never found the French to be rude.  He responded, “Not even in Paris?”, and I said, “not even in Paris!”  

Then his phone rang; it was Laurent calling to say he was on his way to pick me up.  The nice station man gave Laurent directions telling him how get as close as possible to the station door.  As I was getting up to leave, I asked this gentleman if I could have his card so I could write to thank him when I got back to the US.  He said he didn’t have a card but would give me his home address instead.  Then he insisted on walking outside and waiting with me.  Laurent soon drove up.  I thanked this kind gentleman again, the two men shook hands and chatted quickly, Laurent greeted me, and we got into the car and drove away.

Another strange Anna adventure - this one with a very happy ending thanks to Monsieur Gregory Simonnet!

La Fête de la Musique

 This lovely event was launched in 1982 by the French Ministry for Culture, and now the Fête de la Musique is held throughout France and in more than hundred countries in Europe and all over the world. Today La Fête de la Musique is an annual music celebration in France which usually takes place on the  Summer Solstice, the longest day of the year, which was June 21^st this year. This Fête is celebrated everywhere in France from neighborhoods in large cities, like Lyon, to the smallest villages.  Wherever you may be in France on that magical day, you will be able to enjoy music.  What kind of music?  You name it!  Something for every music taste and typically enjoyed outside, in neighborhoods, or in public spaces, etc.  We have heard everything from the Orchestre National de Lyon playing a selection of John Williams movie themes to DJs performing in parks to American style rock and roll, etc.  And, it’s all free!

We are fortunate to live above the City Bar, a neighborhood restaurant and bar, and across the street from its sibling, the City restaurant. Both are run by folks who greet us warmly as “voisins” (neighbors).  And, the sponsors of our local Fête de la Musique concert.

This year while David was gone on THE annual bike trip, I was fortunate to have my Kirkland Neighbor, Patty Leverett, visiting lovely Lyon.  So, Patty and I checked in with the folks at the City Bar from time to time to get their info on their plans for La Fête.  (The seating was in front of the City Bar, and the band was located across the street in front of Le City Restaurant.) 

We agreed to arrive a little early, stake out a good table, and get some beer and food.  The first one to arrive was to grab a table. Great call on our part!  We got a perfect table, we were greeted by our Voisins, and settled in before the band started and the place got crowded.  

Patty found us the perfect table.

The band was a good one and the vocalist was great.  Surprisingly all the songs were from the US – rhythm and blues and rock and roll.  They ranged from oldies to more current selections.  And, all were done very well – it’s amazing how much talent there is hiding out there!

The band!  (Singer is standing just left of center.)

The place started filling up with families, couples, and individuals – all having a good time and really enjoying the music.  

Not an empty seat to be found!

Another beer and more fun music, and it was getting late. Patty and I started feeling the effects of our long walking tour of Lyon, so we agreed to call it a night and regroup the next morning for coffee pastries.  I was able to continue to enjoy the music into the night right from my apartment.  All I had to do was open my windows to continue to savor the energy, sounds, and fun. 

Taken from my living room

I do enjoy the Fête de la Musique!

Mini-Golf du Parc de la Tête d'Or?

We have both explored Parc de la Tête-d'Or many times. David regularly rides his bike around and through the park, and Anna often includes the park in her walks around Lyon.  In fact we’ve been wandering around in the park ever since we first came to Lyon in 2004.  

One of the gates to le Parc de la Tête d'Or

The park is huge – one of the biggest in France.  It’s 117 hectacres (a little over 289 acres) in area.  It has a large lake with its own island and boats to rent, a zoo, the Lyon Botanical Garden, an incredible children’s play area, a Merry-go-round, lots of paths for biking, running, strolling, and huge grassy areas for running around, playing, just relaxing.  It’s just the perfect escape for the many apartment dwellers in this City of Lyon and a favorite destination of ours.  And, we were sure we knew the park!

We were reading our local AVF newsletter (Accueil des Villes Françaises, a volunteer organization originally set up by the French government to help returning French and expats, like us, get integrated into current life in France).  And, we saw an invitation to a Mini-Golf party at Parc de la Tête-d'Or.  What a surprise! In all of our wanderings, neither of us had ever seen anything resembling a Mini-Golf area.

We both enjoy playing Mini-Golf as well as getting together with other folks in AVF, so we signed up.   The course is an interesting one – here are some photos:

David demonstrating his winning style

David came in first in our little group of four, but, alas, did not have the lowest score of all the AVF players.  After the arduous, laughter-filled afternoon of Mini-Golf, we, of course, headed for the Snack Bar to celebrate with various types of liquid refreshments and discuss our near-misses and perfect shots.

Lyon continues to surprise us with enjoyable, interesting discoveries.  Who would have thought that there would be a Mini-Golf Course in a park we both were sure we knew!

Fête des Mêres

One of the many, many benefits of living in France for Anna is that she gets to celebrate two Mothers’ Days.  This year, for instance, Mothers’ Day in the US is on May 11^th, and Mothers’ Day in France is on May 25^th.

In the past our son, Mark has tried mightily to have flowers delivered to Anna on the US Mothers’ Day.  Various flower Delivery companies that claim to deliver worldwide have assured him that his choice of bouquets would be delivered in a timely fashion and on THE day.  All have failed.  Once, the local Delivery Company even informed us that our address didn’t exist.  (That time, our good friend, Dominique, even intervened for us, telling them it did exist, she was French, and she had lived at that very address. That bouquet arrived but was late.) Another time Mark chose an international company that worked with a florist around the corner and down rue Lafayette from us – still nothing but head scratching and confusion.  Then David offered to buy a bouquet and deliver it for Mark.  Problem solved.  From that day on, David was christened Mark’s “Preferred Vendor.”

This year instead of going to a florist, David went to Anna’s favorite “flower and plant lady” at our local farmers' Marché.  David says the lady was confused when he kept choosing bouquets and ended up with four large, lovely ones (and even saved Mark money in the process).  However, she definitely approved when David explained that Mothers’ Day US was on the following Sunday. Here’s a photo of the beautiful results.

Thank you to Mark (and his “Preferred “Vendor.)

May Day in France!

May Day in France is quite different from May Day in the US.  No little kids leaving small bouquets by front doors, ringing doorbells, and running away here. (Do they still do that in the US?)

In France, May 1^st is Labor Day, La Fête du Travail, a serious national holiday!  It is the only day of the year when employees are legally obliged to be given leave (except for some professions that cannot be interrupted, like in hospitals for example). And, if May 1^st falls on a Thursday, as it does this year, most workers are also expected to take the following day, Friday, May 2^nd, off to "faire le pont" (“create a bridge” to include the following day to make a long weekend).

In France, May 1st is also linked to muguets, Lillies of the Valley. Offering a little muguet in spring was actually common way back in medieval times, but it became official May 1st, 1561, when King Charles IX, having received a sprig himself, decided to return the gesture and offer the flower to every lady in his court. 

It’s a tradition that really caught on!  In preparation for May Day, Muguets are for sale everywhere, in grocery stores, farmers’ markets, on street corners – everywhere. (Although, we have not seen as many street vendors in Lyon as in the past.) According to Le Figaro, over 60 million brins or sprigs of muguets are sold in France every year, representing an official market of around €24 million, and if you take into account the many street vendors, the unofficial figure is likely four times as high.

We have always made it a point to get muguets when we are in Lyon.  At first we would just buy sprigs and put them into a vase, but lately we've purchased small plants since we like to enjoy them longer.  Afterall, they bring good luck!  This year Anna bought hers from her favorite “plant and flower lady” in our local farmers’ Marché.

Our 2025 Muguets 

Lunches in Lyon

 One of the many fun things to do in Lyon is to share a meal with friends.  There are many, many restaurants in Lyon, the gourmet capital of France. Restaurants here come in all sizes and styles from “mom and pops” to larger and more formal.  Add some of the remarkable friends we have made in France, and you have a delightful recipe for great conversations on a variety of topics served with wonderful meals.

Here are some examples:

Estelle and our daughter, Jill, met when they were 15 and 16 and involved in an exchange program. Jill spent a month in Lyon with Estelle and her family, and Estelle flew back to the US with Jill and spent a month with us.  And, it was magic - we’ve been “family” ever since then.  Estelle refers to us as her American parents, and she is our French daughter.  Through the years our French family has grown to include Estelle’s husband, Laurent, their sons, her mother, and extended family.  So it’s not surprising that spending time with our French family is high on our list of priorities when we are in Lyon.

Here’s a photo of Estelle, Laurent, and us having lunch soon after we returned to Lyon this year.

When we first arrived in Lyon in 2010, we became members of AVF (Accueil des villes françaises).  This organization was initiated by and continues to be partially supported by the French government to assist both returning French and expats living in France integrate into modern French society.  Through AVF we have met folks from all over the world, and have learned about, toured, and experienced France in wonderful ways.  Recently, David attended a monthly Men’s Lunch, an event started by our good friend Roger Micallef.  

That’s David - second from the right.

Also, shortly after we first arrived in Lyon, our friends, Roger and Dominique, invited us to attend a Del Cano lunch with them.  Del Cano was started as an organization of ex-RAF folks.  Juan Sebastián Elcano (del Cano) was the Spanish navigator who completed Magellan’s circumnavigation of the globe after Magellan was killed in the Philippines.  He was the unsung hero who got the job done.  Naturally, this is primarily a group of British people, although they have generously included a few of us “colonials” in their lunches.  Another group of very interesting folks from a different part of the world!  Anna went to lunch with them this week at a small restaurant in historic Vieux Lyon.  The topics of conversation varied widely and even included an invitation to the upcoming celebration of the King’s birthday.

That’s Anna on the right between the lady in pink
and the lady in blue.

Good food, interesting conversations - doesn't get much better than that!