The Amazing Pont du Gard

After we left Châteauneuf-du-Pape we drove south through vineyards, fields, and small villages to Pont du Gard. This is something Anna especially wanted to see after reading about it when planning the trip’s itinerary. It definitely lived up to all the “press”!



Although the Pont was built 2,000 years ago, it remains in very good condition. The Romans, themselves, considered it an example of their greatness. It is the highest bridge they built and is around 48m (157.4 ft) tall. The bridge was actually built as part of a 50km (31 mile) long aqueduct, and there is evidence to suggest it was in continuous use for 400-500 years. It carried water from the springs near Uzès to the city of Nimes. The Romans built it using enormous stone blocks, some of which weighed about 6 tons. These blocks were hauled into place by a system of pulleys and lots of slave labor. As you will see, the bridge has three tiers of continuous arches. Quite the engineering feat! Wonder how many edifices today will be around in 2,000 years!


We walked across the bridge and back along with other tourists. And, we were amused to read graffiti, some of which is from the 19th century. There is also a lovely, new museum facility on the side of the bridge closest to Nimes, but it was closed when we were there.


But, words really don’t do it justice, so here are some pictures:

This was taken from the Uzès side after we walked across.

Taken from the walkway on the lowest set of arches.  Just take a look at the size of those blocks!

Taken from the Nimes side.  You can see tourists walking back across the bridge.

David took a picture for a French family, and they took this one of us.

A Visit to Châteauneuf-du-Pape

While in Provence we made a day trip to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, an historic site, beautiful small village, and a pioneer in creating quality standards for French wines. The standards were created in the 1920’s and were used as a basis for national and other regional standards in France over the years. A Châteauneuf-du-Pape red was one of the earliest ‘famous’ French wines that Anna and David can remember ordering in a restaurant in the US, so it was fun to visit the place where the wine originates. Additionally, the name refers to the ruins of a 15th century château built by one of the Avignon Popes that sits above the town. Since January is traditionally a vacation period for many in the wine industry, as the harvest and initial fermentation have been completed, the area was somewhat quiet and many wineries were not open. But since there were also few tourists, we had our pick of the rest.



Châteauneuf-du-Pape (CNP) is only about 20 miles from Avignon so we arrived about noon after driving through vineyards and past small wineries, and up a small hill to the town. We parked and walked to the small town square, and checked in at the tourist office, where an extremely gracious and helpful woman gave us lots of information. On our walk to the square we noticed that, in spite of it being a beautiful day – 50-60 degrees, bright blue skies – it was very windy in the village. The woman explained that this was the famous (or infamous) “Le Mistral”, a strong seasonal wind blowing down the Rhone River valley towards the Mediterranean.

The Square looking up the hill

Leaving the tourist office, we wandered through the narrow streets and up to the top of the hill to see the actual Châteauneuf-du-Pape, constructed as both a fortress and secondary residence by Pope John XXII. It has been photographed and painted by numerous famous artists over the years. Although only a huge partial shell remains, it is still an impressive edifice. Returning to the central square, we went into a small Brasserie where we had one of the best meals we have had in France, with, of course, a bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape red wine. Anna had Escallope de Porc avec Roquefort [basically a pork chop with a bleu cheese sauce), and David had Pave de Boeuf en Croute d’epices (steak with a crust of spices, such as various peppers). These were both accompanied by potatoes and vegetables, and were great.

One of the remaining old sections of wall at CNP with gate

Approaching the famous actual Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Where we had lunch

After a leisurely lunch we continued our sightseeing in the village, going into a small ‘cave’, or wine store, where we tasted more wine, purchasing six bottles of CNP that are ready to drink now.


Here are a few more shots of what we saw:

Another view of the Château

View out over Provence from the Château

Yet another shot of the Château

Looking back at the Village Square

"Sur Le Pont d'Avignon..." - On the Road to Provence

                                                           Sur le pont d’Avignon,

                                                           L’on y danse, l’on y danse,

                                                           Sur le pont d’Avignon,

                                                           L’on y danse tous en rond.

One of the side trips we had planned to take while in France was south to Provence - or, more specifically, to Avignon. And, what better time to go to the sunny south than in the middle of winter? So we began preparing for the trip: Anna researching sites to see and plotting a route, David researching hotels and making hotel and car reservations. We planned to leave Friday, January 14th, and return Monday, January 17th.



Why Avignon?


Avignon is a very old, walled city with 5,000 years of history – but unlike most cities in France, the wall around the old city center remains largely intact. It is probably best known for the period in which the Papacy took up residence in Avignon in the 13th and 14th centuries. During that time it became the capital of the Christian world and drew the best architects and artists whose influence can be seen to this day. The old city is dominated by the enormous Palais des Papes, or Popes’ Palace, the largest gothic palace in Europe.


Navigating inside the old walled part of Avignon is a special challenge. Most of the streets remain very narrow and are one-way. We wanted to stay in an old hotel in the old part, and managed to get a room right on the center square, the Place d’Horloge, or Place of the Clock. [Actually, there are TWO clocks in large towers, across the street from our hotel, with chimes that sound the hours. Luckily, they chime consecutively and not at the exact same time. They also are silent between 10PM and 7AM.]

The square is bordered by restaurants, the City Hall, the theater, and shops. In the summer, it is undoubtedly a lively place at all hours. In spite of being the dead of winter, there was a good deal of activity the Friday night we arrived. We enjoyed evening drinks and meals at some of the restaurants around the Place.


After getting settled, we planned our exploration of the area – the famous Pont, the Palais des Papes, and the renowned Chateauneuf-du-Pape wine region. Meanwhile, here’s what we saw around the Place d’Horloge.

In order, we have our hotel, a carousel, and the Marie, or City Hall of Avignon.



The 83rd Annual Marché aux Vins de Côte-Rôtie

More "scientific research", or any excuse to drink good wine.



A week ago we started noticing posters and ads for the ‘83rd Marché aux Vins de Côte-Rôtie’ in a place called Ampuis. Looking at the map, we could see that Ampuis was only about 30 miles south of Lyon. One thing we noticed was that there was no location given in Ampuis. How were we to find the marché, we wondered? At least until we looked on line at the town and the affair. Ampuis is a very small village in the Rhone River valley – finding this affair should be no problem.


First, a word about the grapes and wines of the Rhône valley, and more specifically about the small area known as the ‘Côte-Rôtie’, or Roasted Hillside, so-called because the vineyards are often on steep, rocky hillsides where they are exposed to the glare of the often very hot summer sun. Most wines in France are produced and sold as wines from a specific area. The name of the area will carry a reputation that should appeal to a segment of potential customers. Because of quality problems with wines in general in the distant past, the French Government, often at the behest of the quality wine producers, established rules about grape varieties allowed in an area, quantity of harvest per hectare of vines, quantity of wine produced per quantity of grapes, vinification methods, etc. These rules especially apply if one wishes to call one’s wine a ‘Bordeaux’, or a ‘Côtes du Rhône’, etc. While the result has been wines of superb quality, the rules can have a side-effect of suppressing experimentation with different grape varieties in an area. For instance, the valley of the Rhône might be a good area to grow Cabernet Sauvignon, but if that were done, the resulting wine cannot be labeled with any specific appellation currently in use in the area. That’s because the allowed grape varieties are primarily syrah, grenache, carignan, and mourvedre for reds. In the Côte-Rôtie area specifically, they are syrah for reds and viognier for whites. Interestingly, some vintners are using up to 20% viognier in their RED wines, an allowed practice that adds an interesting floral note to an otherwise usually dark, full-bodied wine.

The Côte-Rôtie wine market, one of oldest and best in France, features more than 60 producers pouring, and selling, more than 200 wines from the Côte-Rôtie and from some surrounding areas such as Condrieu and St Joseph.  [A note about Condrieu - the renowned British wine writer, Robert Joseph states that 'the white wines of Condrieu are the best in the Rhone and have recently acquired almost cult status' - it was easy to see why!] 

For 8 Euros each, we got a quality Spiegelau wine glass and entrance to the affair, held in the Ampuis lycée gymnasium. Many of our fellow tasters were obviously locals come to check out the latest releases and in some cases, to see what their competition was up to.

We had a great time tasting some wonderful wines, watching other people do the same, and listening to animated conversations about the wines. [Interestingly, at least ¾ of the visitors appeared to be middle-aged men!] The wines we tasted varied from full bodied reds with notes of tar and flowers to incredibly perfumed viogniers. The reds all avoided the sometimes too-heavy feel of some American and Australian syrahs, and American producers can only dream of producing these kinds of viogniers.


We purchased a few bottles [3- Côte-Rôtie reds, and 2 Condrieu whites] for our modest closet ‘cellar’, and did a bit of sight-seeing on the way home.

The Art of Parking in France

On one of our first trips to France, we were caught in a torrential downpour in Paris. As we, along with 20 or so of our new, nearest and dearest friends, huddled under an awning, we watched a gentleman park his car. This was all the more enthralling since the parking space seemed to be no longer than his car. After several deft maneuvers, he was successful. We were in awe! Then he got out of his car, and we noted that he was dressed in an obviously, well-tailored, rather expensive suit. He opened the trunk of his car and fumbled around in it until he found an umbrella. His suit was soaked, but we found the umbrella was not for him. He opened the passenger door and offered his hand to an absolutely stunning woman; then he held the umbrella over her as they crossed the street and went into a door. He had remained uncovered the entire time – his suit was, no doubt, ruined. This incident taught me two things: (1) French men can be incredibly gallant – especially if one is a statuesque blond, and (2) the French seem to have their own take on parking. (Okay, so the transition is a stretch, but I really wanted to share the story of the man in the rain.)

We have seen some admirable parking since then (though none quite as spectacular) and have also noted that the French seem to have some unwritten rules covering the art of parking. For instance, ANY parking space available is an option – no matter how small. We’ve seen some cars parked in places so tight that it looks as if they were picked up and put in place. I’m in awe!

With a mini it's even easier to be creative in parking.  How about SIDEWAYS? 

Also, since parking places are hard to find (in Lyon, as in any big city), it’s okay to double park or park in places other than parking places as long as one turns on the flashing “hazard lights.” If another driver is blocked in and needs to get out or needs to drive down a lane or alley that is blocked, he simply leans on his horn. It may take a few beeps, but soon the owner of the creatively parked car will come running and move it. No harm done, and everyone is happy.

And, finally, as in many cities, one is supposed to pay to park. Simply pay at a conveniently located meter and put the printed receipt on the dash. BUT…what if you’ll only be a minute or two? Or, you’re in a real hurry? Or, you are out of change, and you don’t want to use your credit/debit card? Or, you just don’t feel like paying the stupid parking fee? Well, there’s a good chance the police won’t come around to check – right?


There is only one problem with the last two lines of reasoning: the local police do not recognize them as valid. In fact we have watched as small swarms of local police swoop down on parking areas and walk down a line of cars leaving little billet doux on windshields. We understand these tickets can be pretty pricey, and the penalties for not paying are onerous. Still it seems lots of drivers are willing to take the chance as you can see below.

Double parking? How about on the sidewalk?

An experience with the French medical system

One thing about this trip is that David is always determined to enjoy every experience that comes his way. That’s about the only way one could get any fun out of being sick.


Not seriously ill – but enough so he finally went to a doctor – a big step for him.


The problem was some sort of respiratory bug that would not go away. For five weeks, it hung on, sometimes better, sometimes worse. Sometimes he was sure it was gone, only to see it return again. The week between Christmas and New Year’s it returned with a vengeance, so that on New Year’s eve day it became apparent that he should find a doctor. We had a list of Doctors in our arrondisement from our insurer and he called all five on the list only to find that they had all taken either the week or the day off. Finally he called some acquaintances that we have already spoken about – Brigitte, a doctor, and John, a medical researcher. Brigitte was at work at the hospital, but John kindly attempted, also without success, to find an available doctor. Finally Brigitte called and said David was to come to the hospital immediately and she would see that he got attention.


The hospital was interesting – very helpful and courteous staff, almost no waiting in reception, [everyone was too busy getting ready to go out that night, New Year’s eve, to be sick], and a rather decrepit campus that is about to be renovated. Brigitte met us in reception and walked us part way to the respiratory department where she had called ahead to tell them he was coming. When David checked into the department, they were ready and greeted him cordially. After a few minutes a young, [and according to Anna, GORGEOUS] doctor came to get David. He spoke little English, but David’s French was adequate, so the examination went smoothly. He was diagnosed with a sinus and pharynx infection and given a prescription to be filled, with specific, clear instructions on what was to be done.

Hopital Edouard Herriot

We left the department and walked back to reception to pay, as of course we were not covered by France’s social services. The bill came to a total of 23 Euros! No wonder France’s social services are in financial trouble, just like everyone else’s. We then went to a pharmacy to pick up the various items prescribed – about 50 more Euros.


David took his antibiotics etc., like a good patient – nothing like wanting a solution to overcome any resistance to following instructions!


A week later and it looks like the ‘bug’ is finally going away.

Christmas in Lyon - Gatherings (4)

A Family Christmas

Quite some time ago Chantal, Estelle’s mother, invited us to the family Christmas Day celebration at her place. We were very honored and, of course, accepted her invitation. It had snowed earlier in the week, and the temperatures remained below freezing. The sidewalks were icy and slippery, but the scenery was lovely as we rode the Tram to Chantal’s neighborhood.



Side Note: For those of you interested in planning and architecture, the complex Chantal lives in was designed by Tony Garnier. (Just like the facility where the wine tasting was held.) His idea was to create a complex of reasonably-priced, low-rise apartment buildings arranged in squares with park-like areas in the middle. Those in charge later ended up extending the heights of the buildings to work in more units, but the central park areas remain.


We had been told to arrive around noon. David, with his unerring sense of direction, got us to Chantal’s door right on time. (Anna remains totally directionally challenged.) Our contribution to dinner was a bûche de noël; we also brought our gifts for Estelle, Laurent, and their boys, a book for Marius, Estelle’s 2-year old nephew, and hostess and Christmas gifts for Chantal.


When we got there, Chantal and Bérengère, Estelle’s sister, were bustling around getting the table and food ready while Bérengère’s husband entertained Marius. It’s really too bad we didn’t get a picture of the table at that point – it was beautiful! In addition to her lovely place settings, Chantal had placed a gift bag (green or red) at each place at the table; it looked truly festive. Soon Chantal’s brother and sister-in-law arrived, followed by a sister and brother-in-law along with their son and his wife, and daughter and her fiancé. This was followed by introductions, handshakes, and bises all around. Then Estelle and her family arrived. More greetings, a flurry of gift exchanges, and then time to begin eating.


Chantal had prepared one of those amazing, multi-course French dinners where there seems to be no end to the food and one wonders how to fit in another single bite but somehow manages to fit in another 2-3 courses. We essentially conversed, ate, and drank from around noon to 8:00 PM when Estelle and Laurent drove us home.


We feel very fortunate to have had the opportunity to share Christmas Day with this lovely, warm, friendly family. It is certainly a Christmas we will remember fondly for years to come.

Couldn't quite get the whole table in. This was taken during the first course (an amazing cream of celery soup with cheese puffs, variious spreads on toast rounds, etc.)

Paul and Estelle's cousin, Benjamin, mesmerized by Hex Bugs.  (That's a quiche with smoked salmon on the plates.)

Estelle with the scarf she made for Anna decorated with our grandchildren's footprints (at birth) to make their initials, X and V. (Jill scanned and emailed the footprints to her.)

Paul and Victor showing us some of their presents.

Christmas in Lyon - Gatherings (3)

Christmas Eve Champagne

We’ve probably mentioned that we have become “regulars” at our corner boulangerie/sandwicherie. It’s a great place to have our café au lait, fresh pastries, freshly squeezed orange juice (for David), and freshly made smoothie with seasonal fruit (for Anna). We typically also get a loaf of freshly baked bread (they make a variety of choices) often along with some of their dessert pastries. (We are REALLY going to miss this when we’re back in the states!)



Over the past months we’ve developed a friendly relationship with the proprietor, his wife, and also their helper. We exchange comments about the local news, our families, and a variety of other things. And, every-so-often, the owner will ask us to “try” something or will slip “samples” into our sack along with our purchases. Delicious food, pleasant folks, and relaxed atmosphere – what a perfect way to start the day!


Around Tuesday or so before Christmas, the proprietor invited us to come for a little Christmas celebration at 2:30PM on Friday. He reminded us again on Friday morning and mentioned champagne. So we headed over Friday afternoon. As we crossed the street (that’s how far away this is), the helper saw us and said “tout de suite!” to encourage us to hurry. When we entered the place we saw trays and trays of both sweet and savory appetizers. And, they just kept coming – fresh from the oven. The champagne flowed as promised, and that kept coming, too. So who were the others there? Neighboring merchants, suppliers, and a few customers like us. It was both delicious and delightful and a great way to enjoy Christmas Eve.

Christmas in Lyon - Gatherings (2)

Lessons and Carols

What could be more unique than



• a church in Lyon where the services are in English


• a non-Catholic Church in a very Catholic country


• a person we would call the Vicar or Rector preferring to be referred to as the Chaplain or simply “Chris” and who, in his previous life, read History at Balliol College, Oxford and then worked in educational publishing for 20 years


• Anglican church services held in the chapel of the Communaute de l’Adoration Reparatrice (a Catholic convent)


• a congregation of the most diverse group of people imaginable – people from every continent except Antarctica


• and, a congregation that includes quite a number of refugees?


That’s the Lyon International Anglican Church!

Early in our stay in Lyon, new friend of Anna’s via AVF hooked us up with a couple who attend that church. Soon John (a Scot) and Brigitte (French) invited us to Church and then lunch at their place. (Another interesting couple who have become friends of ours! You will hear more about them later.)  You can imagine Anna's surprise when she learned that another guest at lunch was from Fresno and actually lived not far from her brother, John!  The world seems to be getting smaller all the time! 


On Sunday, December 19th, we attended the Lesson and Carols service at the church. The readers had a variety of accents and were members of the congregation, the music was great, we were joined by some of the nuns, and Chris gave one of his great, thought-provoking homilies. The service was followed by mulled wine and mince pies.

This is another experience that has enriched our stay, and was definitely a great way to get into the Christmas spirit!

Christmas in Lyon - Gatherings (1)

Christmas Potluck at AVF



Anna sat next to Mei, a friend in AVF, at a lunch, and Mei mentioned she was putting together an impromptu party at the AVF office – were we planning to come? After a very, very short consultation, we said, “Absolutely!”


Each guest/couple/family was to bring a wrapped gift, a beverage and either a dessert or a “savory.” We took a small package of chocolate “bottles” filled with various liqueurs, a Grand Cru Alsatian Riesling, and a plate of deviled eggs. The gift was to cost two euros or less; that’s a tough price restriction! Ours was just under three, and it didn’t look like many others were able to comply either. The buffet included a variety of foods with some interesting ethnic dishes, and the beverages covered a wide range, as well. (What a great way to try a variety of locally available, inexpensive wines!)





  After we had all eaten too much and taken the opportunity to chat with lots of people, Mei announced it was time for carols and passed around sheets of lyrics to the usual songs. We managed to get through the entire “Twelve Days of Christmas” (no small feat!) and moved on to a verse and a chorus of “Jingle Bells,” and finished with “Deck the Halls.”  (That's Anna on the far left, and Mei is the tall woman with short hair in the middle.)


Then it was time for the present exchange! It was fun to see the variety of imaginative gifts – everything from Metro tickets, to candy, to small figurines… We got a package of “Bien Etre” tea which is an herb tea with peppermint, chamomile, and other good stuff. (Anna is enjoying it.)


With an exchange of warm wishes to one and all, we were on our way home.

We celebrated with several different groups of people and in several different locations.  All of them unique to our stay in Lyon.  We thought we’d share some with you…