Jazz at the Péristyle

 

The City of Lyon sponsors summer jazz performances on the covered porch of the opera house (known as the Péristyle).   And, here's a view of the Péristyle from outside.  There are three performances a night, they are free and start at 8PM, but you really need to get there by 6/6:30 to get a table. Anyway, we went to some performances last year and just went to the first one of the year. The group we saw is a quartet named "Minor Sing" that plays gypsy jazz.  (For those of you in the Seattle area - think Pearl Django.)

We got there around 6:15, found a table, and settled in with a couple of beers.  (There are waiters and a bar in the Péristyle.)  It’s a good thing we got there when we did because we got one of the last tables.  The place was packed with standing room only!  As you can see from this picture, there isn't much room to spare!  The venue is really a good one – a covered area with open sides, on a large square, with great bus and metro access.  The acoustics are surprisingly good, and the stage is visible from most, if not all, tables.

“Minor Swing” is one of our favorites by Django Reinhardt and Stéphane Grappelli so the group’s name “Minor Sing” gave us an idea of the music they would play.  (Although, the name does make us want to groan when we see or hear it.)  The group consists of a bass, a violin, and two guitars – pretty traditional for this type of jazz.  There are three French men, all university-trained musicians, and a Bolivian who has been playing a guitar since childhood.  They are really quite good and we ended up buying a couple of their CDs! 

After the concert, we walked across the square to catch our C3 bus that drops us off a little over a block away from our apartment.  What a lovely summer evening!  The people of Lyon are very fortunate to have this concert series to enjoy.  We know we will certainly be back to the Péristyle again soon!

Visit to Silk Workshop

Through AVF, an organization we belong to in Lyon, we toured a silk workshop Tuesday.  It was really fascinating to see a huge loom in action!  But, first a little history…

Henry IV, "Good King Henry," was king of France from 1589 to 1610.  (He was actually married in the Cathedral St Jean, here in Lyon.)  And, he gave Lyon an exclusive right to the silk industry.  There is a lot of local history related to the silk business here:  for instance, the rebellions of the Canuts, or silk workers, in 1831, 1834 and 1848 (“Living through work or dying through combat”). And, we are told that we also have the silk industry to thank for Lyon’s many traboules (covered passage ways) that allowed workers to transport their fabric without its getting wet and ruined.  The Croix Rousse area of Lyon became the center of the silk industry, and still has some apartments used by the silk workers.  It was one of these apartments that we toured today.

The silk workers lived and also worked in these apartments.  Really easy commute, but it also meant some very long hours.  Their apartments have very high ceilings with windows from the floor to ceiling.  The size of the workers’ looms ( ~4 meters or 13 feet tall) is the reason the ceilings are so high in these apartments.  Joseph Marie Jacquard revolutionized silk weaving with his system of punch cards that could program a loom to produce a specific design, and these looms are huge.  (The punch cards are not unlike the old IBM cards some of us remember that were used to convey information to a computer.)

Since we arrived very early for the tour, we decided to have a bit of lunch first in a small square.  While eating we were entertained by a class of elementary students (about 3rd grade) who were engaged in a PE class consisting of navigating down a ramp, around traffic cones, and doing relays while on roller skates.  Some kids were pretty good, others had less experience.  Lots of falls and collisions, cushioned by helmets, knee and elbow pads, and other protective equipment.  Everyone seemed to have fun, including the spectators.

Jacquard punch cards

Showing punch cards & loom

Jeanne Le Tourneau's Jacquard looms

The silk workshop we visited belonged to Jeanne LeTourneau (1912-2005), a woman renowned and recognized for her prowess as a Pasmentier, silk weaver of trimmings.  (These trimmings are used on military uniforms,  clergy vestments, formal dresses and cloaks, among many other things.)  She was working 11 hours a day at 14 and kept up that pace into her 50s.  She could operate two huge looms at a time, and was still working at the tender age of 90!  Her Jacquard looms remain in place in the LeTourneau apartment/workshop, and we were able to see them in action.  Very, very impressive!