Annual Visit to Roche de Solutré and the Adventure of Anna's Pass Sanitaire

 

We almost always take a day trip to Roche de Solutré during our annual stay in Lyon.  We also plan on eating lunch at a small Auberge in Solutré-Pouilly, the village at the foot of the rock, and one of the villages that make up the famed wine appellation Pouilly-Fuissé.  Covid made this year’s trip different – many places were not open, a Pass Sanitaire is required for restaurant seating, inside or out, and because of covid, our France trip is mid-June to mid-September instead of the usual mid-April to mid-July. The change in time meant that many more people would be visiting tourist spots than would be doing so in May when we would usually go to Solutré.  

So, we stopped off at the Auberge on our way to the Roche at 10AM to see if we could make lunch reservations.  No luck – they were already booked solid for lunch – and it’s the only restaurant in town.  We proceeded with our hike up the Roche, planning on driving to another, near-by town to have lunch. 

Anna on Roche with David's Finger in the Picture

Restaurant "Cassolette" in Crêche-sur-Saône

Upon arrival inn the village of Fuissé [another part of AOC Pouilly-Fuissé], we found the restaurant was closed that day.  So, off we went to the nearby, larger town of Crêche-sur-Saône, where we found an available restaurant. Not as exciting as our normal place, but family-owned and friendly.

After seating us, they came around to check our Pass Sanitaires – imagine our horror when Anna’s QR code did not register as valid!  Luckily, the process was still in a ‘break-in’ phase, and a work-around, in the form of a signature with name, address, and phone number was accepted, so we were able to have a pleasant lunch.  [This is for contact tracing in case a covid outbreak is traced to the restaurant.] Upon returning to our apartment, we were able to determine that the QR code on the paper copy of Anna’s Pass Sanitaire had an ink smear that rendered it illegible to the scanner.

12th Century Church now Tasting Room - Fuissé

Describing Fuissé and its 12th Century Church Building

After lunch, we returned to the village of Fuissé to visit a wine-tasting room that had been established a year or two previously in a deconsecrated, nicely restored 12^th century church building.  After a bit of tasting, and pleasant conversation with the charming and knowledgeable young woman pouring and explaining the wines, we made our purchases and headed back to Lyon.

Some of the Wines Tasted at Fuissé

The Continuing Adventure of Covid documentation, the Pass Sanitaire, and the French health system – Part Two.

 According to information on the US Consulate’s website, Americans can obtain a Pass Sanitaire by going to a French doctor or pharmacist, with satisfactory proof of Covid vaccination.  He or she will then enter your information into the French system and – Voila! – print out your own official Pass Sanitaire.

Big problem – the French system is set up for French residents, who are already in the system.  There is no provision for people who are not already entered into the database.  And, since we are not in the system, there is really no incentive for a doctor or pharmacist to take the time or to make the effort to create these records for people like us.  So, some doctors and pharmacists are understandably taking the position that it ‘cannot be done’.

So, as we often do when we get into a bind – we call on Estelle, our French daughter, to rescue us.  And of course, she saved us again.  What an adventure that was!  Good thing we have a French daughter who knows a pharmacist and knows us and we have, of course, all our US vaccination documentation.  Otherwise, we would be in the position of being unable to travel by train or plane, as in unable to leave the country almost, and unable to eat in a restaurant, visit a museum, etc, etc.

Even with our documentation and with Estelle advocating for us, not to mention a VERY accommodating pharmacist who went to great lengths and spent 40 minutes trying to fit us American square pegs into the round holes of the French system, it still took a great amount of effort to obtain the needed documents.

The Pharmacy, with green crosses at the bottom

Afterwards, the three of us immediately repaired to the Café Juliette nearby for celebratory, [and thank-you Estelle], Champagne!

Café Juliette

We returned to the pharmacy the next day with a thank-you note and two boxes of Sève Macarons, a favorite French confection, for the staff.

Sève Macarons for the pharmacy staff

Regarding US documentation - we would advise having more than your CDC covid vaccine card.  The state of Washington should have your vaccination info on the Department of Health's website and you should be able to print off a covid vaccine cert or at least a print-out of your vaccinations.  Residents of other states should try to obtain official vaccination records from their state of residence or, possibly from their physician. 

 The good news is that it has been announced that a Pass Sanitaire will shortly be available for qualified tourists – details as yet unknown.  Some folks have reported success using US vaccination documents, but that will not always work.  Many places, some big, some small, use the approved scanning method to check the validity of the Pass Sanitaire QR code, which links to the French Government's vaccination database.  They absolutely will not accept any substitute.  And, this is during the announced 'break-in' period this week.  Things will get more strict next week.

Check the US Consulate in France's website for the latest information.  It will have a link to the French Ministry of Health's website for even more information.  Just be aware that things change almost daily - be sure you have the most up-to-date information, and then be prepared for changes - current as of August 13, 2021.

Anna's Coveted, and Hard-Won, Pass Sanitaire

One more note, some small businesses have shut down rather than try to cope with this system.

The Continuing Adventure of Covid documentation, the Pass Sanitaire, and the French health system – Part One.

 We took a bit of a chance coming to Lyon June 16.  This was only one week after the French government lifted its Covid-inspired ban on American tourists.  We knew there would be glitches as there always are when rules change.  Plus, the airlines are responsible for vetting the eligibility of travelers to enter Europe.  Plus, each country had slightly different requirements, and our plane was not going directly to France, but to Amsterdam.  Even allowing a week for the dust to settle, Delta Airlines was still not totally up to date on screening passengers for compliance with French requirements – partly because France was not completely clear on what constituted proof of vaccination.  Delta’s website was not completely up to date, so the ticket agent where we checked our bags and had our boarding passes printed had to call Delta’s headquarters in Atlanta to ensure that she was checking the correct documents – vaccination certification, negative PCR test done less than 72 hours before take-off, etc.  That took about 30 minutes – luckily we had plenty of time.

Entering Europe was fairly smooth – they checked our vaccination papers in Amsterdam where we changed planes for Paris, but not in Paris.  After all the checks we had to go through to get that far, they must have assumed everything would be in order.

We arrived in Lyon on the hottest day of the year so far – 94-95 degrees.  There was still a curfew in place starting at 11PM, but that vanished after two weeks – besides us old people are not often out that late.  Most places such as museums and restaurants were open again, so our routine French life could fall into a familiar pattern.  We had made no travel plans inside France as we did not know what would be open, what rules would be in place, etc.

Then – surprise – the French government began to implement a policy called the ‘Pass Sanitaire’.  This is a document - either paper or on your smart phone - with a QR code linked to your French Covid vaccination records.  Without this document, starting August 1 and August 9, you cannot go into most enclosed spaces, cannot patronize a bar or restaurant either inside or outside, cannot ride intercity trains, buses, or planes, etc., etc.  About the only exceptions are grocery stores and small shops necessary to purchase needed supplies like food and wine. 

To make it easier for everyone to get vaccinated, a walk-in vaccination center opened at the Part Dieu shopping center near our apartment.  At first, only a trickle of customers.  After the Pass Sanitaire mandate - there were lines!

Walk-in Vaccination clinic at Part Dieu

This has had two basic reactions from the French – a huge rush to get vaccinated [which is the point, we think], and growing weekly demonstrations against the Pass Sanitaire program.  France is now a bit ahead of the US in percent of the populace vaccinated, but even with the rush to get vaccinated, it will take weeks for the rest of the populace to qualify for their Pass Sanitaire.  Life is going to be very difficult for the 50% of folks who are not yet fully vaccinated, as well as for the business people who must screen their customers to see if they have the coveted Pass Sanitaire. 

Coming next – the adventure of a pair of foreigners obtaining their Pass Sanitaires through the intricacies of the French Health System.

Our Garden in Lyon

Some of you already know that we have a garden at home.  And, that we both come from families of happy gardeners. So, Anna wanted to have a bit of a garden at our apartment in Lyon.  We have tried a variety of potted plants in the apartment - rosemary, hyacinths, etc.  But, a small potted plant is not a small garden.

Anna mentioned this to Roger, our friend, and then landlord, who is also a gardener in his expansive terrace.  And, Roger came to the rescue with hangers and large planters for our living room's large windows.  He also gave us some potting soil, and David then went on a scavenger hunt to find enough soil to fill the pots.  Meanwhile, Anna started looking for appropriate plants and chose some baby geraniums.  And, it all came together!

Now, we refresh our flower boxes at the beginning of each visit.  This year's geraniums were just starting to bloom when a freak thunder shower and hail storm ruthlessly pruned the plants and removed the buds.  However, geraniums are tough.  And, with a little fertilizer,  a couple of "plant nannies" (those glass balls in the photo), a pinwheel to discourage pigeons, and lots of encouraging comments from Anna, they have not only survived but are thriving.

So here is our garden in Lyon:

The language war: French vs English in France

A diplomat has recently stated that French President Emmanuel Macron is drawing up plans for French to replace English as the official “working language” of the European Union when France takes over the presidency of the Council of the European Union in 2022. (Currently, English is the 'working language' of the EU and is used in high-level meetings between representatives from across the bloc's 27 member states.)  Well, replacing English with French was not well received by everyone in the EU, however.  One diplomat said: “It could divide."  Other comments were: "Some are afraid of missing something because their French is not very good" and "We are so used to English.“  Replacing English with French in the EU sounds like a tall order for France accomplish during its six month term as President of the Council of the European Union!

So, what about at home?  What is the French government doing to promote the use of the French language in France in the meantime?  Well, Paris now requires that all official documents and meetings be held in French.  And, a French diplomat recently said, "We will always ask the Commission to send us in French the letters it wishes to send to the French authorities, and if they do not do so, we will wait for the French version before sending it."  

So how about a little reality check?  From what we have observed, M Macron is facing an uphill battle on the homefront.  Here are just a few examples we see in Lyon:

It seems that every time we come we see more English words.  We have heard that English is now the preferred language taught in schools, after French, of course.   And, cashiers and others we meet casually seem to love to try out their English with us.  Time will tell how successful France will be in having the French use only French.  We're taking bets, and we're betting "not a chance!"

4th of July at a French house in a country town

 

One of the best things we have discovered since first coming to France for extended visits in 2010 is connecting with the French.  This includes the first and second owners of the apartment in Lyon we rent each time we visit.  We have socialized and become friends with both couples and have found them delightful people.  [It helps that they all speak very good English!]  Our experience here has been much more interesting and fun because we have a connection with them.  We feel much less like simply tourists and more like residents – residents who have had the benefit of intelligent, pleasant people to help make our lives here so much richer than if we had simply continued to exist as American tourists in a foreign country.

We and the Micallefs [our former landlords] were invited to the Parisots’ [our current landlords] home in a town outside of Lyon for a 4^th of July lunch.  And what a wonderful lunch it was – complete with USA wristbands for all and lighted stars on the table.  The afternoon started with glasses of wine or Champagne with a varied assortment of delicious nibbles.  All accompanied by interesting conversation both as a group and in smaller sub-groups. 

Showing Off Our Wristbands

The Parisots are the proud parents of two charming daughters who told us how they survived the pandemic, how school has been going, and something of what their summer plans are. Lucie, the older of the two, is home from university where she studies Marketing and Communication.  This summer she is working as an intern for an ice cream company (we sampled some for dessert).  She told us that all of her classes are in English.  Things have changed since we last saw her two years ago.  She is a charming, intelligent adult now rather than a teenager, and we enjoyed our conversations with her.  Fanny, the younger of the two, is in lycée (high school), has her learner’s permit and is now driving a car (with Mom or Dad in the car).  She, too, has matured in those two years.  Her English is quite good now, and we enjoyed conversing with her about her plans for future university studies.  You could see how they both were alive to the possibilities opening before them of the ability to be more autonomous, not only because they will not have to always rely on parents or friends if they wanted to go somewhere, but also that their futures are opening up with choices and opportunities.

Our Charming Hosts!

Usually when we have lunch at the Parisots, it is outside, with a view across the fields to the hills beyond.  The weather so far this summer has been a bit strange – very hot when we arrived, but then a lot of cool, rainy days.  In fact, Monday there were almost 2 inches in Lyon.  So, we enjoyed our visit and lunch indoors this time.  Barbecued steak and an assortment of baked fresh vegies, some from their garden.  All accompanied by a delicious Côte Rôtie, one of the best local reds and world-renowned.   

With the cheese and dessert, we had a 1999 Jurancon moelleux, from a region near the Pyrenees, a wine somewhat similar to a Sauterne, but made with two little-known grape varities, Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng.  Well known or not, the wine was delicious!

A Proper 4th of July Lunch in France!

After lunch, Stéphane showed us one of his ‘wheels’, that he rides to and from the train station, carries onto the train, and then after leaving the train, on to his destination. We’ve seen people riding wheels at home, and it was great to get a demonstration of all of its features from an experienced rider. It’s a fascinating item that seems impossible to ride, but it has a gyroscope that helps the rider stay upright.  It would be fun to try it, but discretion may be the better part here.

An Example of a Wheel

After several hours that passed more quickly than seemed possible, the afternoon came to an end.  Thanks again to the Parisots for a wonderful experience!

The Juliette

Another spot we have enjoyed in the past is The Juliette Restaurant et Bar à Cocktails .  It is a short walk down the street from our apartment.  (Rue Moncey, the street our apartment is on, becomes Rue Juliette Récamier in the next block.)  So after dinner one night, David suggested we stroll down and have a glass of champagne.  Anna rarely (never?) turns down an invitation like that, and so we were off.  

Since we have been gone for two years and a Covid pandemic, we were uncertain about what to expect.  Would the staff be the same?  Would the experience be the same? Well when we arrived, the same manager greeted us with a big smile and welcomed us back - in English, no less.  We chose an outside table (great for people watching) and settled back to enjoy our champagne and the scenery.  

Our table was the round one on the far end.

The gentleman at the table next to ours offered to show us the menu on his phone (lots of menus are via QR code these days).  We thanked him and explained that our order was on its way.  (Next time someone tells you the French are rude, you have permission to laugh derissively at them!) 

It's really hard to beat a lovely summer evening in Lyon and a nice glass or two of champagne at a very pleasant establishment like The Juliette!

Anna's Vice

I (Anna) like to think that I have no (okay, few) vices.  However, there does happen to be one temptation that I cannot resist whenever we come to Lyon.  You see, we are a very, very short walk away from Les Halles Paul Bocuse with all its wonderful, delicious, fairly high-end shops. 

                     

Certainly, Mons, our favorite fromagerie is not to be missed.  In fact it's our favorite place to get cheese both for ourselves and to take to dinner at at friends.  (So many cheeses, so little time!)

There are also great butcher shops, seafood merchants and restaurants, a great wine shop, a super green grocer, a bakery, etc., etc.  BUT, my very favorite is Sève.  Their cakes are works of art, and they taste wonderful.  Here are a few to give you an idea:

But, they also make macarons (not macaroons but macarons).  And, macarons in every flavor imaginable.  From mushroom and other flavors to every dessert flavor you could wish for.  Soooooo many choices!  And, as they say, "Succombez à la tentation de nos macarons sucrés !"  (Succumb to the temptation of our sweet macarons!)

And, the very, very best ones are Salted Caramel.   Trust me on that one - or don't, and leave more for me!  I have little will power when confronted with some of these incredibly yummy confections.  Here's my latest purchase:

It actually started out as a box of twelve, but, well, you know....  The person who waited on me actually asked me if I wanted all twelve to be Caramel.  (Definitely not a true believer!)

So, there's my story - or maybe confession is a better descriptor.  I still have two of them left, but, trust me, they won't be there tomorrow night!

 

How to Celebrate a Wedding Anniversary and a Birthday in Lyon

One of our favorite restaurants in Lyon is the Brasserie L'Est.  At one time the late Paul Bocuse decided to have four restaurants in Lyon, each with a different theme, named for the compass points.  Happily, L'Est is an easy walk from our apartment.  

L'Est came into being in 1997 and is located in elegant Gare de Brotteaux building.  The Gare, or train station, itself was built in 1904 by the Paris-Lyon-Mediterranean Company and opened in 1908.  The building style is quite similar to the Gare D'Orsay (now a favorite museum of Anna's) in Paris.  Needless to say, it is classified as an Historic Monument by the French Government.  The station was only in operation until June 1983.  The building now houses a variety of buisnesses including L'Est.

The beautiful and historic Gare de Brotteaux today.  L'Est is

located just to the left of the large building in the center.

A view of L'Est.  We chose to eat outside, 

just in front of the building this time.

Paul Bocuse's theme for L'Est is in keeping with its location.  His idea was to offer "travel cuisine" with a menu that takes one on "a real taste journey."  And, also in keeping with its location, a model train runs on tracks that circle the inside dining room near the ceiling.  All the staff at Bocuse restaurants from the Maitre D' to the Sous-chef undergo rigorous training and are monitored to ensure they meet Bocuse standards.  

Our table

Now you can understand why we chose this restaurant to celebrate our anniversary and Anna' birthday.  We started off with celebratory flutes of champagne - bien sȗr.

For his main course, David chose Grilled Chicken Supreme wrapped with Colonnata Bacon and served with Potato gnocchi.

And, Anna chose from the menu de jour and had a delicious pork chop in a bed of baby potatoes, carrot slices, cauliflower flowerettes, and other yummy veggies.

And, as you can see, we shared a bottle of Gevrey Chambertin A.O.C - Vieilles Vignes - Domaine Tortochot 2018.

Is your mouth watering yet?

Then on to dessert - right?

David had claufoutis de cerise avec  coulee des fruit rouges, a baked French dessert of fruit (cherries here) arranged in a buttered dish, covered with a batter, and baked.  This was covered with a puree of assorted red berries.  

Anna had three scoops of French ice cream - coconut, pineapple, and raspberry.  (French ice cream is incredibly rich with concentrated flavors.)

This was, of course, followed by coffee.  Whew!

But, we weren't done, yet!  David had earlier told a waiter that we were celebrating Anna's  birthday.  Suddenly, two waiters arrived with a small, old-fashioned, hand-cranked, punch-card, music box to serenade her.  All the other diners applauded as Anna turned bright red.  Then a waiter brought her a cup of chantilly with a candle in it.  Rich and delicious!

After thanking everyone for their good wishes, we strolled back to our apartment.  It had been quite the celebration!

An Evening Concert

Our good friends and former landlords, Dominique and Roger, invited us to go to an outdoor concert with them.   The venue was to be the grounds of Villa Monoyer, a large, old home we have all been curious about for some time.  We had peeked at it through its gate as we had walked by, but that was it. As it happens, Dominique's brother is a friend of the owner, and he was kind enough to ask if Dominique, Roger, and a couple of American friends could attend the concert the owner was hosting.  She said yes, Dominique signed us up, printed out our confirmation, and we were good to go.  So, at the appointed hour, we went over to Roger and Dominique's, Roger and David grabbed four folding chairs from their deck, and we walked over.

We were greeted at the gate by the home's owner.  She explained that she lived at the home part of the year and elsewhere for the rest of the time.  The home was actually built in 1902 by her great-grandfather, Ferdinand Monoyer, a noted French Opthamologist who, among other things, invented the Monoyer Chart that continues to be used to test visual acuity today. Here's his original chart.  If you look closely, ignoring the bottom line, then reading upwards from the bottom, Monoyer and Frederick can be seen.

Villa Monoyer is in need of attention but still impressive.  It's surprising to find a house like this with its walled grounds right inside Lyon!

 All photos courtesy of Roger.

After everyone was seated and settled in, our hostess introduced herself, told a bit about the house, and introduced the performer.  We had heard that our hostess opens her place to events from time to time, and that this was a benefit concert for local children's hospitals.

The performer was quite talented and put on a very good show - just singing and accompanying himself on his guitar.  The program consisted primarily of songs by Moustaki, Ferret, and Brassens.  All of us of a "certain age" would feel quite nostalgic hearing this style of song performed.  Just think Pete Seeger, Gordon Lightfoot, Woody Guthrie, Peter, Paul and Mary, the Kingston Trio, etc., etc.  In fact, we were surprised to hear a cover of Bob Dylan's "Don't Think Twice, It's Alright."  Apparently, "N'y Pense Plus, Tout Est Bien" has been quite popular here and has been covered by several different artists and groups.  The translated lyrics were spot on, by the way.

Enjoying the concert.

(Dominique was in this photo originally, but was

 caught by surprise and wouldn't want her look

 saved for prosterity in this blog.)

So what do you do when a light rain starts, and the outdoor concert isn't over?  Rain isn't good for guitars or performers, for that matter!  Well, a member of the audience jumped up with his umbrella, and the show went on!

Fortunately, the rain stopped, and the concert continued until its end time of 9:00PM.  We chatted with folks a bit while Roger and David packed up the chairs, and we headed back to Roger and Dominique's and then "home."     

Another interesting experience and taste of la belle France!  Thank you, Dominique and Roger!

Just wandering around Lyon

On Friday, the 25^th, we decided to take a nice walk and check out Vieux Lyon, the oldest section of Lyon, to see what might have changed in our absence.  It’s such a pleasure to wander down those narrow cobble streets and enjoy the old and not-so-old sights.  

We window shopped and bought cards to send to our grandkids and neice and continued along past the very impressive Cathédrale Saint Jean, which was built between 1175 and 1480. 

Cathédrale Saint Jean

We continued our walk across the street since one of the places we definitely wanted to check on was La Ficelle, a café we have been visiting since one of our earliest trips to Lyon.  

La Ficelle 

As we walked by, Anna recognized the son of the owners.  He is fluent in English and has always liked to stop and chat.  He recognized us and soon gave us an update on what he's been doing for the last two years.  Then his mother came out, saw us, waved, and hurried back in to get his father.  We exchanged greetings, elbow bumps, and a bit of conversation about what's happening in their world and ours.  It so nice to see that the same family still owns and operates the café.  We had lots of catching up to do along with a nice carafe of rose.

Our bottle of rose in a very Lyon bottle.

And, David enjoying enjoying a glass at one of their outside tables.

It's so nice to be back in lovely Lyon!

Lots happening since our last posting!

In some ways it seems like we never left - has it really been two years?  Of course, this is partly because we stay in touch with our French "family" and friends, though mostly via email and FaceBook.  But, the coast is finally clear to come in person, so here we are...diving right back into our life in Lyon! 

Estelle our French (exchange) daughter invited us to be surprise guests at her older son, Paul’s, 22^nd birthday celebration on Sunday, June 20^th.  This was a typical family celebration with grandmother, aunts, uncles, cousins, lots of little kids, and a sprinkling of friends, but it was the first such gathering since Covid hit.  Needless to say everyone was in a very celebratory mood and happy to be freed from confinement.  We showed up, a bit jet-lagged and bleary eyed, with Anna’s potato salad (per special request) to  very surprised and happy greetings. (The typical first comment was, “I’m vaccinated.”  Then, “So glad to see you again!”)  It was amazing to see how much the children had grown up in those two years!  Laurent, Estelle’s husband, was manning the barbecue with chicken and merguez (those yummy, spicey sausages) on the grill when a major rain storm hit.  He soldiered on through the rain and got thoroughly soaked.  When he finally was able to deliver the last of the meats to the dining room, he was greeted with cheers and an ovation.  We all enjoyed lots and lots of food, wine, soft drinks, and, of course, celebratory Champagne as well as conversations and catching up. We have missed these lovely people and their amazing celebrations!  It is really wonderful to be welcomed back into our French family.  (Sorry - no pix.)

Did we mention rain?  Lyon does get periodic thunder showers in the summer.  But, Sunday was just the beginning.  On Wednesday, the 23rd, at around 7 PM the skies darkened, and we were in for it. How about torrential rain, thunder and lightening, wind, and hail?  Streets flooded, sidewalks became rivers, and cafe owners and patrons scrambled to take down tables and chairs and rush inside.  And, it just kept on coming.   According to the local newspaper, three weeks of rain fell in 40 minutes. Here's a photo (shamelessly copied from the web) showing a street in Lyon during that storm.

But, the rain is gone, the sun is shining, and other than a few lingering problems for businesses due to the deluge, life is pretty much back to normal.

Back in Lyon!

 Greetings from lovely Lyon! 

As you may have noticed, [or not, if your life does not revolve around this fabulous publication], we were not in France last year!!

Getting here was a bit of an adventure.  The French government has not exactly been welcoming to Americans.  When France finally decided to open its doors to us, it was with the proviso that we be able to prove that we were fully vaccinated against Covid, could prove via a PCR test that we didn’t have Covid now, AND sign an “Attestation Form” confirming that we didn’t have Covid symptoms and hadn’t been in contact with anyone with Covid.  Whew!  So getting “our” apartment reservation in Lyon, plane tickets, and TGV (train) tickets in advance of France’s welcome was a bit of act of faith.  Obviously, all went well, and we are happily ensconced  in the apartment on rue Moncey.  

So, what have we been up to since arriving last Wednesday?  Well, we have to admit that we have been mostly getting over jet-lag along and dealing with a bit of a heat wave.  However, we’ve made some forays out to check on some of our favorite places to make sure they are still the same/in business. After all, it’s been two years and a Covid epidemic since our last visit. We have been recognized and welcomed by the folks at our favorite boulangerie.  They actually remembered the kind of coffee we order(!), and also gave us one of their yummy baguettes as we left.  And, our favorite MonoPrix security guard recognized us and greeted us with bonjours and ça vas.  

It is just really great to be back in our second home, lovely Lyon!