Tuesday, July 3, 2018

Relaxing Evenings in Lyon

Occasionally in the evening, especially after a big lunch, we decide to go to a wine bar for a light dinner and glasses of wine.  There are numerous options within easy walking distance of our apartment, and we try to strike a balance between the “tried and true” and “new territory.”

At the top of our list of “tried and trues” is “Le Café Juliette”.  We have been going there for several years, and a couple of the waiters know us and greet us (sometimes in English  L).  It’s quite the happening place, and there’s often music playing!  “Suits” and others come here after work to meet friends, have a refreshing beverage (lots of choices), and unwind before heading home.
Typical summer evening at the Juliette
It’s a great place to enjoy the atmosphere and have some wine with some charcuterie (platter of mixed meats accompanied by lots of slices of fresh baguette) or maybe frites avec parmesan (addictive!).
David enjoying some Rosé and  charcuterie
We have recently gone to another place new to us.  This one was recommended by Annette, a friend from our Découverte de la France class and fellow wine enthusiast.  “The Wee-An” is also an easy walk from our apartment so we decided to give it a try.  Annette told us they have an extensive wine list, and she definitely was not exaggerating!  It is a huge binder! 
Photo from Wee-An's website showing platters of cheese and charcuterie
They also offer platters of charcuterie and platters of a variety of cheeses among many other options.  The food and wine are very good, and the wait staff is very,very pleasant and knowledgeable.   The perfect combination! We have gone there twice now and will likely return.
We finished the evening with a bit of this Armagnac. 
(Vintage the year we were married.  Anna explained
to the waiter that she was 10 years old at the time.  Right!)
 

Sunday, July 1, 2018

Our Annual Pilgrimage to Solutré Pouilly

When we came to Lyon for a year, we made numerous side trips to learn more about the region.  Among the amazing things we discovered was the Roche de Solutré. We have made it a point to climb the Roche de Solutré and then visit the amazing restaurant in the village of Solutré Pouilly almost every year we've stayed in Lyon.   
Roche de Solutré (photo from the web)
There are actually three of these amazing rocks that seem to pop up out of the surrounding vineyards of Burgundy.  The Roche de Solutré has a well-defined, groomed trail to the top, an excellent museum at its base, and even a small coffee shop nearby.  It was a logical choice when we first started our visits.

The history of this imposing landmark (designated a “Grand Site of France”) is also impressive.  Neanderthals pursued reindeer, bison, and horses (back when they were quite small) here, and later Cro-Magnons established a settlement here.  You can imagine how excited Adrien Arcelin, a local archaeologist, must have been when he discovered the site in 1866.  The result was one of Europe’s most extensive records of prehistoric times. 

But, back to our visit this year….Since Anna had had arthroscopic surgery a little over four months earlier, we agreed it would be wise for her to wear her rather impressive brace just to give her knee a little more support and protection.   The look was stunning – quite the fashion statement! 

Anna on the rock with her brace
 (that's the village of Solutré Pouilly behind her)
And, she was very happy to be shed of the brace when we got back to the car and drove to Solutré Pouilly for lunch at La Courtille de Solutré, one of the very best restaurants we have ever experienced.  We discovered this restaurant (actually an auberge) the first time we went to The Roche de Solutré.  The village of Solutré Pouilly is a short drive or reasonable walk from the museum parking lot, and La Courtille de Solutré was pretty much the only restaurant around.  Our experience was fantastic from the setting to the chalk-board menu to the service to the incredible food.   We have gone back each time since and were not surprised to see that it was mentioned in Le Guide Michelin for the last eight years or so.
Anna at our table at the restaurant
(note the red Guide Michelin awards on the window).
David's main course
Anna's main course
Our wine with lunch.
After another amazing lunch, we went to the tourist/wine shop nearby to taste and purchase some wine.  The Pouilly-Fuissé AOC (Appellation Controllée) is reknown for its Chardonnay for whites and Gamay for reds. 
L'Atrium (the tourist/wine shop)
Needless to say, we came away with a bottle or two or more.  We were pleased to find a very pleasant young woman running the shop.  She was not only very, very knowledgeable but also had a great sense of humor.  It wasn’t long before she and Anna had formed an alliance and were ruthlessly teasing David.  We agreed we had to have a photo of “Les Femmes Formidables”!
Les Femmes Formidables
Yet another pleasant visit to Roche de Solutré, Solutré Pouilly, and La Courtille de Solutré !  We’ll definitely be back !