Another Anna Adventure – with a surprise happy ending (warning - this one is kind of long)

 Leaving Lyon is always a little sad.  So many nice folks to say au revoir and à la prochaine fois to.  We were off to Estelle and Laurent’s for hugs and good-byes to them both and to drop off David’s bike to be babysat by Laurent.  David was obviously going to ride his bike so I was going by metro and bus - pas de problème.  We’ve done it many times – a short, easy trip. 

Metro B arriving at San Genis Laval station

The end of the line for the B metro is in Saint Genis Laval and the station is a short bus ride away from Estelle and Laurent’s cul-de-sac.  So, I came out of the metro station and walked over to the #78 bus stop.  But, there was a paper sign where the schedule should be.  My knowledge of French was not up to the wording on the sign, but it was pretty obvious the 78 would not be arriving any time soon.  So, I walked over to the #18 bus stop since it would also get me to Estelle and Laurent’s cul-de-sac entrance.  Hmm.  Looked like the same sign I saw at the #78 stop.  Not good news.  So, I pulled out my phone that I had set up to work in France, and tried to call or text Estelle.  Mysteriously, the phone had decided not to work on anything but WIFI.  Great!  Now what?

Inside the station.

Unfortunately for me, the French have been very efficient in converting their metro stations to totally automated.  Never-the-less, I walked back into the station for inspiration and in search of WIFI.  (Also, because it was nice and cool inside and blazing hot outside.)  I noticed a man at work at a desk in a glassed-in office.  He seemed to be the only other living, breathing person in the station.  So, I knocked on his glass door.  He seemed surprised to have anyone knocking on his door, but he was very gracious and after the obligatory bonjours, asked if he could help me (in French, of course).  I explained my problem, also in French, (with a lot of repetitions of “ne marche pas”).  He explained that those buses weren't working because some bus drivers were on grève (strike). And, there was no public WIFI in the station.  

Then he asked me where I was from and if I would prefer to speak in English.  (Between his English and my French, we actually ended up conversing pretty well in Franglish.) He asked where I was trying to call, and I told him I was trying to reach Estelle or Laurent.  He whipped out his personal phone, asked for a phone number, and dialed Estelle's.  He left a voice mail message, then he handed me the phone and told me to call Estelle to confirm what was going on.  Estelle picked up and said they were wondering what had happened to me, and I said I was sitting in air-conditioned splendor in this kind gentleman’s office.  She said she was working from home and couldn’t leave, but Laurent would be home soon and would rescue me.  The man in the office, and I had a little time to chat a bit.  We talked about where we live.  He was surprised to hear that David and I had actually been to his hometown on one of our exploring adventures.  And, then he said, “see – not all French people are rude!”  I laughed and told him I had honestly never found the French to be rude.  He responded, “Not even in Paris?”, and I said, “not even in Paris!”  

Then his phone rang; it was Laurent calling to say he was on his way to pick me up.  The nice station man gave Laurent directions telling him how get as close as possible to the station door.  As I was getting up to leave, I asked this gentleman if I could have his card so I could write to thank him when I got back to the US.  He said he didn’t have a card but would give me his home address instead.  Then he insisted on walking outside and waiting with me.  Laurent soon drove up.  I thanked this kind gentleman again, the two men shook hands and chatted quickly, Laurent greeted me, and we got into the car and drove away.

Another strange Anna adventure - this one with a very happy ending thanks to Monsieur Gregory Simonnet!

La Fête de la Musique

 This lovely event was launched in 1982 by the French Ministry for Culture, and now the Fête de la Musique is held throughout France and in more than hundred countries in Europe and all over the world. Today La Fête de la Musique is an annual music celebration in France which usually takes place on the  Summer Solstice, the longest day of the year, which was June 21^st this year. This Fête is celebrated everywhere in France from neighborhoods in large cities, like Lyon, to the smallest villages.  Wherever you may be in France on that magical day, you will be able to enjoy music.  What kind of music?  You name it!  Something for every music taste and typically enjoyed outside, in neighborhoods, or in public spaces, etc.  We have heard everything from the Orchestre National de Lyon playing a selection of John Williams movie themes to DJs performing in parks to American style rock and roll, etc.  And, it’s all free!

We are fortunate to live above the City Bar, a neighborhood restaurant and bar, and across the street from its sibling, the City restaurant. Both are run by folks who greet us warmly as “voisins” (neighbors).  And, the sponsors of our local Fête de la Musique concert.

This year while David was gone on THE annual bike trip, I was fortunate to have my Kirkland Neighbor, Patty Leverett, visiting lovely Lyon.  So, Patty and I checked in with the folks at the City Bar from time to time to get their info on their plans for La Fête.  (The seating was in front of the City Bar, and the band was located across the street in front of Le City Restaurant.) 

We agreed to arrive a little early, stake out a good table, and get some beer and food.  The first one to arrive was to grab a table. Great call on our part!  We got a perfect table, we were greeted by our Voisins, and settled in before the band started and the place got crowded.  

Patty found us the perfect table.

The band was a good one and the vocalist was great.  Surprisingly all the songs were from the US – rhythm and blues and rock and roll.  They ranged from oldies to more current selections.  And, all were done very well – it’s amazing how much talent there is hiding out there!

The band!  (Singer is standing just left of center.)

The place started filling up with families, couples, and individuals – all having a good time and really enjoying the music.  

Not an empty seat to be found!

Another beer and more fun music, and it was getting late. Patty and I started feeling the effects of our long walking tour of Lyon, so we agreed to call it a night and regroup the next morning for coffee pastries.  I was able to continue to enjoy the music into the night right from my apartment.  All I had to do was open my windows to continue to savor the energy, sounds, and fun. 

Taken from my living room

I do enjoy the Fête de la Musique!

Mini-Golf du Parc de la Tête d'Or?

We have both explored Parc de la Tête-d'Or many times. David regularly rides his bike around and through the park, and Anna often includes the park in her walks around Lyon.  In fact we’ve been wandering around in the park ever since we first came to Lyon in 2004.  

One of the gates to le Parc de la Tête d'Or

The park is huge – one of the biggest in France.  It’s 117 hectacres (a little over 289 acres) in area.  It has a large lake with its own island and boats to rent, a zoo, the Lyon Botanical Garden, an incredible children’s play area, a Merry-go-round, lots of paths for biking, running, strolling, and huge grassy areas for running around, playing, just relaxing.  It’s just the perfect escape for the many apartment dwellers in this City of Lyon and a favorite destination of ours.  And, we were sure we knew the park!

We were reading our local AVF newsletter (Accueil des Villes Françaises, a volunteer organization originally set up by the French government to help returning French and expats, like us, get integrated into current life in France).  And, we saw an invitation to a Mini-Golf party at Parc de la Tête-d'Or.  What a surprise! In all of our wanderings, neither of us had ever seen anything resembling a Mini-Golf area.

We both enjoy playing Mini-Golf as well as getting together with other folks in AVF, so we signed up.   The course is an interesting one – here are some photos:

David demonstrating his winning style

David came in first in our little group of four, but, alas, did not have the lowest score of all the AVF players.  After the arduous, laughter-filled afternoon of Mini-Golf, we, of course, headed for the Snack Bar to celebrate with various types of liquid refreshments and discuss our near-misses and perfect shots.

Lyon continues to surprise us with enjoyable, interesting discoveries.  Who would have thought that there would be a Mini-Golf Course in a park we both were sure we knew!

Fête des Mêres

One of the many, many benefits of living in France for Anna is that she gets to celebrate two Mothers’ Days.  This year, for instance, Mothers’ Day in the US is on May 11^th, and Mothers’ Day in France is on May 25^th.

In the past our son, Mark has tried mightily to have flowers delivered to Anna on the US Mothers’ Day.  Various flower Delivery companies that claim to deliver worldwide have assured him that his choice of bouquets would be delivered in a timely fashion and on THE day.  All have failed.  Once, the local Delivery Company even informed us that our address didn’t exist.  (That time, our good friend, Dominique, even intervened for us, telling them it did exist, she was French, and she had lived at that very address. That bouquet arrived but was late.) Another time Mark chose an international company that worked with a florist around the corner and down rue Lafayette from us – still nothing but head scratching and confusion.  Then David offered to buy a bouquet and deliver it for Mark.  Problem solved.  From that day on, David was christened Mark’s “Preferred Vendor.”

This year instead of going to a florist, David went to Anna’s favorite “flower and plant lady” at our local farmers' Marché.  David says the lady was confused when he kept choosing bouquets and ended up with four large, lovely ones (and even saved Mark money in the process).  However, she definitely approved when David explained that Mothers’ Day US was on the following Sunday. Here’s a photo of the beautiful results.

Thank you to Mark (and his “Preferred “Vendor.)

May Day in France!

May Day in France is quite different from May Day in the US.  No little kids leaving small bouquets by front doors, ringing doorbells, and running away here. (Do they still do that in the US?)

In France, May 1^st is Labor Day, La Fête du Travail, a serious national holiday!  It is the only day of the year when employees are legally obliged to be given leave (except for some professions that cannot be interrupted, like in hospitals for example). And, if May 1^st falls on a Thursday, as it does this year, most workers are also expected to take the following day, Friday, May 2^nd, off to "faire le pont" (“create a bridge” to include the following day to make a long weekend).

In France, May 1st is also linked to muguets, Lillies of the Valley. Offering a little muguet in spring was actually common way back in medieval times, but it became official May 1st, 1561, when King Charles IX, having received a sprig himself, decided to return the gesture and offer the flower to every lady in his court. 

It’s a tradition that really caught on!  In preparation for May Day, Muguets are for sale everywhere, in grocery stores, farmers’ markets, on street corners – everywhere. (Although, we have not seen as many street vendors in Lyon as in the past.) According to Le Figaro, over 60 million brins or sprigs of muguets are sold in France every year, representing an official market of around €24 million, and if you take into account the many street vendors, the unofficial figure is likely four times as high.

We have always made it a point to get muguets when we are in Lyon.  At first we would just buy sprigs and put them into a vase, but lately we've purchased small plants since we like to enjoy them longer.  Afterall, they bring good luck!  This year Anna bought hers from her favorite “plant and flower lady” in our local farmers’ Marché.

Our 2025 Muguets 

Lunches in Lyon

 One of the many fun things to do in Lyon is to share a meal with friends.  There are many, many restaurants in Lyon, the gourmet capital of France. Restaurants here come in all sizes and styles from “mom and pops” to larger and more formal.  Add some of the remarkable friends we have made in France, and you have a delightful recipe for great conversations on a variety of topics served with wonderful meals.

Here are some examples:

Estelle and our daughter, Jill, met when they were 15 and 16 and involved in an exchange program. Jill spent a month in Lyon with Estelle and her family, and Estelle flew back to the US with Jill and spent a month with us.  And, it was magic - we’ve been “family” ever since then.  Estelle refers to us as her American parents, and she is our French daughter.  Through the years our French family has grown to include Estelle’s husband, Laurent, their sons, her mother, and extended family.  So it’s not surprising that spending time with our French family is high on our list of priorities when we are in Lyon.

Here’s a photo of Estelle, Laurent, and us having lunch soon after we returned to Lyon this year.

When we first arrived in Lyon in 2010, we became members of AVF (Accueil des villes françaises).  This organization was initiated by and continues to be partially supported by the French government to assist both returning French and expats living in France integrate into modern French society.  Through AVF we have met folks from all over the world, and have learned about, toured, and experienced France in wonderful ways.  Recently, David attended a monthly Men’s Lunch, an event started by our good friend Roger Micallef.  

That’s David - second from the right.

Also, shortly after we first arrived in Lyon, our friends, Roger and Dominique, invited us to attend a Del Cano lunch with them.  Del Cano was started as an organization of ex-RAF folks.  Juan Sebastián Elcano (del Cano) was the Spanish navigator who completed Magellan’s circumnavigation of the globe after Magellan was killed in the Philippines.  He was the unsung hero who got the job done.  Naturally, this is primarily a group of British people, although they have generously included a few of us “colonials” in their lunches.  Another group of very interesting folks from a different part of the world!  Anna went to lunch with them this week at a small restaurant in historic Vieux Lyon.  The topics of conversation varied widely and even included an invitation to the upcoming celebration of the King’s birthday.

That’s Anna on the right between the lady in pink
and the lady in blue.

Good food, interesting conversations - doesn't get much better than that!

  

ANNA’S WINDOW BOXES

Years ago, back when our good friends, Roger and Dominique, were our landlords, Roger gave Anna two planter boxes for our living room windows.  It had started when Anna was admiring all the lovely plants on Roger and Dominique’s terrace and made a comment about missing the flowers in our garden at home.   Soon Roger generously delivered some “spares” - two window boxes complete with potting soil, trays and hangers for the railing. Voila!  Anna had her very own “garden”! 

Since then each stay in “our apartment” has started with the removal of last year’s dead plants and the planting of lovely, new plants.  Finding a place to buy plants close to where we live in the city has presented difficulties in the past. However, we have “discovered” a wonderful local marché just a short walk away. This marché has many, many great products: fresh vegetables, cheese, honey, meats, cut flowers, plants, etc., etc.  

 The Marché

One of Anna's favorite booths belongs to a lady who carries a wide variety of cut flowers, and herb, veggie, and flower plants.  On her recent visit to the marché, Anna was very pleased to find the lady happily surrounded by lots of flowers and plants of all sorts.

So here is a photo of this year’s baskets complete with geranium and lithodora plants.  Both plants are happy in full sun and should do well in the baskets.  (Those sticks are there to discourage pigeons from moving in and nesting.)

And, we have found that the lithodora plants are particularly popular with local bees. That was a bit of a surprise since our apartment is on the 4^th floor (French)/5^th floor (US). How do they know there’s good stuff for them here to begin with?  And, how amazing that it’s worth the effort to fly way up here!  Just a surprise bonus, I guess.

Two Favorites in Lyon: Pastry and People

I wrote about changes in the last post, so I’ll write about some things that, thankfully, haven’t changed.  Namely – people and pastry.

Our day often starts with a breakfast of some fresh pastries from one of the boulangeries nearby.  In fact, I often just walk across the street and get a croissant for David and a chausson aux pommes for me.  

That's the boulangerie on the corner. 
Photo taken from our living room window.

We became very spoiled when we first came to our apartment in Lyon and got to know Philippe and Angeline who used to own that boulangerie.  They gave us a very warm welcome and soon became good friends.  The folks who work in the boulangerie now are unfailingly pleasant, patient, and even remember my usual order, but we do miss Philippe and Angeline.

I have come to love chaussons aux pommes which can probably best be described as French apple turnovers – think warm, flaky, buttery pastry loaded with apple pie filling.  Delicious! 

We now have a favorite boulangerie just a couple of blocks away.  We enjoy sitting at a table there while we drink our café-crèmes, eat a pain au raisin (for David) and a chausson aux pommes (for me) and chat with the folks behind the counter.  We typically also get a baguette and often desserts.  They have a lot of delicious offerings! And, in case you are wondering, I think these folks make the very best chaussons aux pommes around.  

Friendly folks at our favorite Boulangerie.

These folks also remember us from year to year and always greet us warmly. In fact, when we returned to Lyon after a couple of years absence, thanks to Covid, they greeted us with big smiles.  And, after the usual bonjours, the lady behind the counter greeted us with “comme d'habitude”?  (The usual?)  

Then, as we were leaving Lyon last year, we walked by the boulangerie on our way to the train station.  The gentleman in the photo rushed out and gave David a bag with a pain au raisin and a  chausson aux pommes in it and said “pour la route” (for the road).

So when you started reading this posting, you may have wondered why I linked pastry and people.  Now you know!  Two Lyon favorites that haven't changed.

BACK IN LYON!

Yes, we have returned to Lyon and "our" apartment!  It's fun to sort of take inventory of things that have changed while we were gone and what other things remain, quite pleasantly, the same.  So, let's start with our apartment building which dates back to the 1880s.  (You may remember that David chose this apartment for its appearance and ambience.  No modern high-rise need apply.)

As we left Lyon last year, the entry and hallway of the apartment building were getting quite the face lift.  All of the wood surfaces got new varnish, and all of the walls were in the process of getting painted.  It's the painted part that had us worried. The building has lots of decorative touches that help give it that 1880s feel.  What if they were to just slap fresh, institutional, beige paint on the walls and cover up all those lovely touches?  Needless to say, we were very relieved to see samples of "new" paint colors on the walls that very closely matched the existing colors.  But, what about the special Art Nouveau touches? Well, you may remember the last few posts last year re our apartment building update featured two very talented ladies who actually restore buildings like this one.  They did an amazing job! Here are some before and after photos:  

AVANT

APRES

AVANT

APRES

AVANT

APRES

As you can see our artists did a beautiful job matching those antique colors and replicating every detail.  The end result, along with the refinished woodwork and stair railings, is very impressive!

What a nice welcome back to our "second home"!