Wednesday, May 23, 2012

A Visitor From Kirkland

As we mentioned in our first blog for this trip, we were hopeful of a visit from our Kirkland friend, David.  (He is one of the several Davids we know - a very popular name!  See the Dr Seuss story "Too Many Daves" for reference.)  David and his wife, Sarah, are our Bridge buddies.  We get together to eat good food, drink good wine, converse, and play some bridge.

We had enjoyed a visit from their elder daughter, Leighanna and her roommate, Gillian, last year and were pleased to hear that David could squeeze some time with us into a business trip.  He had instructions from Leighanna to be sure to see the "dead elephant"* and the Roman amphitheater.  We made sure he saw those sites and many more in the short time he was here.  We did a LOT of walking!  (He told us he slept well that night.)
The weather was nice enough to enjoy lunch on the banks of the
Rhône
It was great fun to act as tour guides in our "second home" - we look forward to showing it off to Sarah, too, next time.


*Anyone who has seen Fourvière Basilica from a distance will see that it does, indeed, look like a dead elephant will all four feet sticking up in the air.
 That's Fourvière on the hill, in the distance.


Monday, May 21, 2012

THE BICYCLE TRIP, continued

The saga continues...

"The Lads" rescheduled their adventure for the morning of Saturday, May 12th.   All four were more than ready to go.  (And, their wives had plans for the week, too.  For instance, Anna and Estelle, our French "daughter," were going to meet at 3 PM for coffee, shopping, or whatever.)  Anyway, we  all met at Place Carnot for the big send off, and they were, at last, on their way.


"The Lads" from the left: Tony, David, Pascal, and Roger.
The weather wasn't the best.  In fact, they had to take refuge from a torrential downpour under an autoroute bridge along with an older lady who turned out to be a great conversationalist.  A nice way to wait out a storm!
The weather cleared and they were off again.  They found a pleasant route and were quite enjoying the trip.  When, about 25 km (15-16 miles) south of Lyon, David's front tire somehow got wedged between a railroad track and the pavement.  The bike stopped, but he didn't.  (A body in motion tends to remain in motion - remember that from Physics?)  The next thing they knew, David was kneeling on the ground, holding his face, and, as Tony, says, "there was blood everywhere!"

As fortune would have it, a man in a near-by house was just on his porch, saying good-bye to his brother-in-law and saw the whole thing.  He called an aid car and hurried over to help.  (This gentleman and wife were wonderful to everyone!)  Soon David was off to the Emergency Room in an aid car accompanied by Pascal.

Even after being cleaned up at the hospital, David was a sight. Multiple scrapes and bruises on his face, along with bandages on his chin and upper lip and ten stitches above his left eye; scrapes and bandages on his arms and hands; torn pants and a scraped knee, and a lovely bruise on his thigh. Quite the visage! But, thankfully, it's nothing that can't heal.

Back on the homefront, Anna recieved a call from Dominique (Roger's wife) telling her that David was injured and Catherine, Tony's wife, would be happy to drive her down to join the riders and collect David to bring him home.  Soon they were off and arrived just as David was getting out of the hospital.

David is healing quite nicely and will get his stitches out at the end of this week.  Here's a picture Laurent, Estelle's husband, took of him a week after "the event."
Definitely on the mend!
So what about the bike ride?!  It's been rescheduled for June 3rd.  Stay tuned!









THE BICYCLE TRIP

It all began last year when we were in Lyon…David and Roger, our friend and landlord, decided it would be great to bicycle from Lyon to the Mediterranean.  (Actually, to avoid Lyon traffic, they were talking about taking the train a few miles south to Vienne and continuing south from there.) 

For those of you who may not know, France is a very bicycle-friendly place with lots of dedicated bike paths.  And, a bicycle club had published a packet of day-by-day routes from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean, passing through Lyon, complete with detailed instructions, maps, mileage, cautions, etc.  And, David had purchased the packet.
The Happy Duo in a recent picture.
Anyway, rental bicycles were scoped out along with bags to hold belongings, appropriate clothing and other items.  They were pretty much ready to go.  Then Roger got sick, and we left France, and that was that.
In anticipation of our return to Lyon this April, the trip was resurrected.  In fact it had grown from the two riders to a possible six.  Two dropped out, and then there were four: Roger, David, Tony, and Pascal (“the lads”, as Roger calls them).  The route, equipment, clothing, etc., and departure date were set.  The plan was to leave the morning of Saturday, April 28th.   Then the winds came.  We’re not talking about balmy breezes; we’re talking about gusts of 60 mph against the riders.  And, the rain didn’t help either.  All agreed to postpone the trip.

Muguets and May Day

May Day is a HUGE holiday in France.  It's their Labor Day, and pretty much everything is closed - including all public transportation.  (The cab drivers must love May Day!) 

We walked the mile and a half or so to Dominique and Roger's and spent most of the day with them.  Roger, David, and Dominique's brother, Gerard, went for a long bike ride around town while Dominique and Anna, accompanied by Gerard's little dog, took a long walk and wandered through a large market in a near-by square.  It was quite a large market with everything imaginable -  vegetables, cheeses, meats (cooked and raw), sausages, clothing and other textile items, and flowers and plants.  I'm sure I must be leaving out something.  Anna got a table cloth with a Provence design, and Dominique bought some Muguets at a flower stall.

Muguets are what we Americans call Lilly of the Valley.  They are traditionally purchased on May Day - either as cut flowers or as plants.  It is considered good luck both to give and to receive them.  And, they were available on street corners, at the market, in flower shops, in grocery stores, pretty much everywhere.  It's really a lovely tradition.  The plants Dominique got at the market are especially nice.  Here's a picture of the one she gave Anna.

After dinner and more conversation, it was time to walk back to our apartment.  Nothing like a nice, long walk to help one appreciate Lyon's great public transportation system!

Friday, May 4, 2012

AubrysInFrance 2012 - 1st posting

Since we are only going to be here for three months, we hadn't really planned to do a blog.  But, then people started asking if we would be doing one.  So....we will be doing a blog - just not as "religiously" as last trip's.

For those of you who don't know, we left Seattle on April 17th and are spending three months back in Lyon.  What's magic about three months?  Well, any more than that requires a visa, carte de sejour, special medical insurance, lots of paper work, a sizeable amount of euros, etc. etc.

We are back in the same neighborhood and apartment.  In many ways it feels like our second home.  We have enjoyed seeing many of our Lyon friends, and checking in at the boulangerie across the street and at AVF.  We both really love Lyon!

So what's on the agenda for this trip? 
  • Well, David, Roger, and a few other gentlemen are embarking on a bicycle trip down the Rhone River valley on the 12th.  Their goal is to end up in the Med - we'll see.  David is calling it the "Geriatric Tour de France." 
  • Anna, with David's help, has been researching her grandfather's WWI service and hopes to visit the area where he saw action in the Meuse-Argonne Offensive and received his Purple Heart.
  • Lots of "day trips" to some of the many interesting places around here.  And, a few longer jaunts to explore new places.
We've also enjoyed dinner with our Seatle friends, Bob and Sally, during their first trip to Lyon.  They came here because we kept talking about what a great place it is, and they assured us that they enjoyed their stay in spite of the less than superlative weather.

And, this weekend our friend and bridge buddy, David, will be here on business and is managing to carve out some time for us.  His daughter was a guest of ours last time we were here, and he's heard about the pastries at the boulangerie so that is definitely on the "to do" list.

So there you have it.  A long-winded introduction to the AubrysInFrance 2012 edition.  More to come.

Saturday, March 31, 2012

What Anna will miss about France

Well, you certainly can't say we've rushed into finishing off this blog! We've been home since late July (it's now March 31st), and we're getting ready to leave for Lyon again in 17 days. Maybe we just didn't want to admit our year in France was over?

 So what will I (have I) missed most?  Here’s my list in no particular order.

AVF
This organization was truly a Godsend! We met wonderful people through it, we went to places we would not have seen, and we enjoyed social events we would never have been able to attend. And, we definitely gained a deeper appreciation for Lyon, France, the French language, culture, and history through this wonderful organization. I've included reminders of some of the AVF events below.

The proprietor of a winery in Beaujolais where we enjoyed tasting his wines and sampling his wife's fine cooking.

 
Scene from cruise on the Saone River.

End of the year lunch for our "Discover France Class" at Andrée-Anne's

David and me at the end of the year gala.

 

Our Friends

We met so many wonderful, friendly, generous people and made so many new friends that I know I’d be sure to leave some out if I tried to list them all.  These people really were the ones that made our year in France such a joy!  Here are just a few of them.
Phillipe & Angeline owners of our favorite boulangerie who were great hosts and went on to become friends.

Dominique and Roger, who started out as "just" our landlords became great friends.
The History

For someone who has spent her whole life in the US, and on the West Coast at that, being immersed in the history of Lyon and of France was almost overwhelming.  I remember when David and I decided to limit our weekend excursions to places dating back to around 12th or 13th century or earlier – not the “recent stuff.”   I’ve always enjoying studying history, and experiencing it “up close and personal” was incredible.  Here are just a very few of the places and things we saw.
The clocher at Cluny

The medieval village of Cremieu


Sitting in a Roman amphiteater in Lyon

The Food

It would be impossible to mention France without mentioning food!  First of all, there is the amazing variety of fresh fruits and vegetables available both in “supermarchés” and in Farmers’ Markets.  Then there’s the pastries…maybe there’s a difference in the flour and/or butter that makes the pastries so much better than anything we have at home?  And, we were continually pleased to find small “mom and pop” restaurants and cafes, both in Lyon or elsewhere that served absolutely delicious meals.  My very favorite being the lunch with had in the small village Solutré Pouilly; it was absolutely the best meal I’ve ever had.  Also, meals are NEVER rushed.  No waiter will ever bring you your bill unless you ask for it; you could literally sit there nursing your coffee for hours if you wanted to!  Then there are meals we ate as guests in peoples’ homes – there was always so much wonderfully food, and the meals typically lasted for hours.  One does NOT rush the enjoyment of a meal and the conversations that accompany it.    (I won’t mention the wine since I know David has covered it in detail.)

My lunch in Solutré-Pouilly - the only meal I took a picture of.


Estelle and Her Family

I really enjoyed lunches and shopping with Estelle, our French daughter!  It’s amazing how it seems no time has passed when we first see her, although there have been years between our visits.  She has become a part of our family, and we love her very much.  We also got to know her family better and enjoyed their company. Laurent, her husband, was always the perfect host and made us feel so welcome!  We had several, very enjoyable, meals with Estelle, Laurent and their boys.  And, then there was Christmas when Chantal, Estelle’s mother, included us in the family Christmas celebration and meal.  What warm, wonderful people!
A "simple French lunch" at Estelle and Laurent's.

Family Christmas at Chantal's.


I know I’m sure to think of something I should have included, but it’s come time to stop and get ready for our next trip.

Thursday, March 29, 2012

What David Will Miss About France

The Weather – late summer, early spring, SUN a lot of the time.  All driven home by comparing with Kirkland’s weather.  We had many sunny days during the winter when it was great to be out and about.  Winter temperatures are about the same as Kirkland, with the exception of many sunny days in the 50s, making it easy to be outside.  This past spring, we’ve had many sunny days in the seventies, excellent for a leisurely lunch by the river or at a sidewalk café.  When one is working for a living, especially inside, it’s a bit easier to ignore the weather; when one is at leisure in terms of one’s daily activities, unless your preferred activity is indoors, poor weather begins to impact one’s quality of life.  As I write this, we have gone from a bit muggy 80 degrees to a thunderstorm with downpours.  Last night [6/23] was the 30th annual Fête de Musique, with musical acts both local and international at outdoor venues all over the city - most were rained out by another thunderstorm.  My shoes are still wet; Anna’s umbrella is destroyed.   Nothing’s perfect.

The people – most are open, friendly, and helpful, even including highway toll-takers.  The bar owner down the street, where we have had drinks maybe three times, stopped me the other day and said to be sure to let him know if we need anything or needed help with anything.  The folks at the vienoisserie across the street – hard-working, pleasant, fun, friendly – embodying everything you would want in a neighborhood business.

Our French daughter Estelle and family – husband Laurent and two boys, Paul and Victor.  We had such fun with them – dinners, family celebrations, barbeques, lunches with Estelle.  They welcomed us into their home and busy lives, providing a familiar touchstone around which we experienced the best that France and Lyon had to offer.

The public transportation system – clean, quiet, efficient.  By US standards, expensive for short trips, but no zone charges.   An interconnecting very frequent system of subways, buses, and tramways make it easy to get around the city, and to go to and from the city and the surrounding towns

French women – it’s not that all are gorgeous; it’s that if 5-10% of American women look good and dress fashionably on an every-day basis, then 15-20% of French women do.  You never see French men or women in public in sweats.    The French government has had a public education program in place regarding nutrition and balanced diets since about the 1920s. Recently, in response to a thickening of French waistlines, an exercise component has been added to the message. See mangerbouger.fr 

French wines – they are not better than American wines, but very often they are better values.  No doubt this is partly because of the tax structures.  Alcoholic beverages are heavily taxed in the US.  French wines typically have been lighter and lower in alcohol than corresponding American wines.  This is changing since world tastes in wine appear to be evolving towards the American and Australian models.  This is a shame in some ways because lower-alcohol wines allow one to have a bottle at dinner and still be able to navigate.  It’s also interesting to note which regions are evolving rapidly towards this international style, and which are still making much of their wines in the old style.  Bourgogne [Burgundy] appears to be the slowest to change, especially in the reds.  It is more difficult to get an interesting red wine from Bourgogne for a reasonable or even low, price than in the other prominent regions.  Bordeaux, the Rhone, and Provence are all producing excellent reds for 5-10 Euros or less.  I have paid 25 Euros for an ordinary red from Bourgogne, but we consistently buy really excellent Bordeaux for less than 5 Euros.

The number of people walking, biking, skating, or riding scooters about the city.  American cities would kill for this kind of energy and activity on city streets.  Why the difference – custom largely, reinforced by the fact most French live in relatively small apartments, gasoline costs about $8 per gallon, and public transportation is easy.

French food – cooking and presentation.  We’ve mentioned in many blog posts how amazing meals can be had at small cafes in small towns for reasonable prices.

The vibrant life still present in so many small French towns and villages.  They are having the same problems with migration to the cities with the negative impact on the small shops, but not to the extent where small towns have no retail businesses, as in the US.

Typical Weather
What I will not miss –less effort to efface graffiti; more trash on the streets, lack of a yard to work in; lack of a car [occasionally]; family and friends at home; no Rotary meetings.
Our Appartment is to the Left of Le Crayon [The Pencil]

Another Beautiful Day