Canicule [Heat Wave] in France

For three and a half weeks, end of June to the fourth week of July, ever since David came back from his Loire Valley bike trip, we had been living with an almost uninterrupted heat wave, with temperatures ranging from 88 to 100F.  We had a two-day period of 79-80 degrees in there but otherwise, hot weather.   [30C=86F; 35C=95F]

Temperatures in the Second Week of July

 No A/C in our apartment – only portable fans.  We learned to close our outside shutters and windows in the late morning, and turn on a fan.  Inside, the temperature stayed below 90, but we felt a bit trapped as it was not pleasant to go outside and walk, visit parks, etc. 
We also ate out a lot, as it was difficult to cook, and we didn’t want to add more heat to the apartment [any excuse to eat out!].  We went to various places (see previous posts about Mons and The Juliette) and ate a lot of charcuterie and salads and drank a lot of good rosé and refreshing white wines.  For five days and four nights, we went to our favorite Auberge in Vivier and enjoyed the pool and A/C at night.

Kids Playing in a Fountain

Evidently this has been the worst heat wave since 2003, when a reported several thousand people died all over Europe.   Since then, various French governmental bodies have set up places with A/C for at-risk people to go to, and phone trees to check up on vulnerable people, such as single older people living without A/C.  This has been evidently working well, as we have not read of any serious problems, other than long lines at public pools.

Public Pool on the Banks of the Rhone - Lyon

Late last week, about July 23, temperatures began to moderate – high 70s to low 80s.  Everyone’s outlook changed for the better, and we certainly have appreciated cooler sleeping conditions.

Return visit to Relais du Vivarais

A few years ago David discovered a wonderful auberge in the Ardeche while on a trip with his biking buddies. He brought Anna there to celebrate her birthday and their anniversary (both July 1^st) that

View from our cottage.

year, and we have made annual visits every year since.  We always stay in a cottage away from the main building and near the pool.  Lots of privacy and quiet with our own covered patio.  The food (especially dinner!) is great, prepared from local products, and served with proper French flare.  This year we stayed for 5 days/4 nights, and it was wonderful.

We had developed a fun relationship with Michelle, the owner/manager, so we were a little concerned to find that the auberge has recently changed ownership.  As it turned out, Nadine and Patrice Emery, the new managers, are quite pleasant.  Maybe not as funny and fun as Michelle, but give them time.



Anna enjoying le petite déjeuner

France has been experiencing a “canicule,” or heat wave, so we were especially appreciative of the swimming pool and air conditioned cottage.  Our neighbors, vacationing from Belgium and staying in the other cottage near the pool, felt the same way.

The auberge is located just outside of Viviers, and there is a lot to explore in this part of France.  Chances are if you have taken a river cruise down the Rhone, you have stopped for a short time in Viviers.  Viviers itself is loaded with historical significance, and we always make it a point to check out some of the other interesting destinations in the area.  We’ll do separate postings on them – for now, we’ll just share fond memories of Relais du Vivarais, the auberge.

We plan to return next year.

Mons in Les Halles de Lyon - Paul Bocuse

Very near our apartment is a place called Les Halles de Lyon - Paul Bocuse.  This is a gourmand’s 

Mons in Les Halles de Lyon - Paul Bocuse

wonderland!  Nothing but the best – meats, bakery goods, confections, wines, sea food, fresh fruits and vegetables, cheese, spices…you get the picture.  One of our favorite places there is Mons, a fromagerie  (cheese shop).  Mons is primarily a retail establishment; one can just go in and tell them what the event is and what wine will be served, and they will offer you the perfect cheese – many times more than one choice.  The manager, Etienne Boissy, has been awarded the honor of Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 2007*.  That certainly speaks well for the establishment! And, Mons also has a small counter with stools where they serve a variety of cheese plates, accompanied by bread and the appropriate wines as well as small repasts.  Just the thing for a toasty day when no one wants to cook, and who could turn down their cheese, anyway?

A quick side note on cheese…The French take their cheese very seriously.  Cheese is a very important part of any proper dinner in France and comes just before the dessert.  (We have caused stifled gasps and raised eyebrows when we’ve mentioned the American habit of offering cheese as an appetizer.) There are often several cheeses offered during the cheese course, and they are to be eaten in the proper order.  A place like Mons has many choices of every type of cheese imaginable (around 200); they vary by place of origin, age, and price.  It’s a cheese-lover’s paradise and definitely the place to pick up the perfect cheeses for that night's cheese course.

Cheese board with salad and bread.

Anyway, we have had a late lunch/early dinner at Mons’ counter twice so far this stay.  Both times have been very enjoyable – not only because the food (cheese!!) has been great, but also because of the atmosphere and servers.  In both cases the manager has come over to make sure everything was to our liking and exchange pleasantries. And, on both occasions, our servers have spoken English as well as French and have been happy to share stories about why they can speak English. (This time our server had lived in Auburn, WA and worked for a cheese company there as well as their shop in Pike Place Market and elsewhere.)   Anna has had the “chef’s choice of salads” (thinly sliced smoked duck breast and warm, soft goat cheese slices on a large toasted croutons on a bed of various greens and tomato slices with a light balsamic vinaigrette) both times.  David had the salad the first time and a charcuterie board (assortment of thinly sliced meats, sausages, and sliced, small pastries filled with pate and meats) this most recent time.  Both were excellent.  This last time we ended with creamy cheese desserts made in house (Anna’s included caramel and was a huge hit).  Absolutely delicious!!

The place was consistently busy with shoppers while we were there.  Not surprising!  Mons is definitely a favorite of ours – not only for the perfect cheese for any occasion, but also for a light meal and pleasant conversation.  We are very fortunate to be living so close to it!

*The title of  Meilleurs Ouvriers de France is a unique and prestigious honor in France awarded to

Etienne Boissy,Meilleur Ouvrier de France

people in a variety of trades after a contest which is held every four years.  This is a really huge honor complete with an award ceremony in Élysée Palace with the President of the Republic of France in attendance.

An evening at The Juliette.

Juliette Récamier was a French society leader, whose salon drew Parisians from the leading

Famous picture of Juliette Récamier

literary and political circles of the early 19th century.  She was also a native of Lyon and quite beautiful.  The street our apartment is on, rue Moncey, turns into rue Juliette  Récamier just a block away from our apartment.  On that street, there is a fun place called The Juliette that serves drinks and a variety of appetizers.   




We enjoy going to The Juliette for a light dinner with wine, and we have been there a couple of times so far on this trip.  We get there early enough to get a table outside so that we can enjoy the

The Juliette (we usually sit in the covered
area out of the picture on the right)

weather and people-watch.  This first time, the weather was lovely, a light breeze and sunshine, and we settled in for a pleasant evening’s repast.  After about 7/7:30 things really picked up with lots of people arriving after work for a glass or so of wine before heading home.  (This included a bunch of “suits” who arrived looking like refugees from IBM – dark blue/charcoal/black suits with white or light blue shirts and conservative ties.)  Anyway, the people-watching was at its best , and our waitress added to the fun with her repartee and occasional English comments and kept us supplied with a variety of olives.  We exchanged a few pleasantries with some of the people sitting near us as we enjoyed our Viogner and plate of four different hams, cornichons, and baguette pieces.    We finished off our evening  with flutes of Ruinart Champagne and strolled back to our apartment. 

This last week we went to The Juliette again.  The crowd was different (very few suits), but the place was packed never-the-less.  We were early enough to get a table outside.  This time we tried a bottle of Gascogne, a pleasant wine from the home of the Three Musketeers.  There were three women next to us with notebooks in hand and staring at a computer screen - they were obviously working while enjoying their drinks.  Soon one of the women left, and we found ourselves conversing with the remaining two.  One spoke excellent English with a lovely French accent.  (Why is it that English spoken with a French accent sounds so great, and French spoken with an American accent does not?!)  By the end of the evening, we had written suggestions for two auberges, a business card, and a personal invitation to come by for a glass of  wine on the way to an auberge.  Can't say that we will take her up on her offer, but it was very kind. They also asked how long we have been married then sighed and agreed with each other that there was hope for them and their spouses, then.  Anyway, we had a very pleasant conversation that touched on many subjects. It was getting late so we said good-bye and wandered back to our apartment.

You can rest assured, we will definitely be back to The Juliette this visit and have more stories to share!  How could we not return?  Lots of people watching, good wine, good options for a light dinner, and, best of all, fascinating and delightful people and conversations.  (Anyone who says the French are cold and unwelcoming has a major problem!) 

papilles en éveil

Those of you who have read this blog in the past may remember that Anna belongs to a cooking (and eating!) group called “papilles en éveil” - roughly translated as “awaking tastebuds.”  This is

some of the group taking a break

another AVF-sponsored group organized by Brigitte, an incredible ball of energy, action, and smiles.  Each month eight women in the group (first come, first served) get together at a member’s home to prepare and then eat an entrée (1^st course), plat (main course), and dessert.  They take turns hosting and taking the lead in the various courses. 

Normally, the group meets at homes within the range of public transportation in and around Lyon, but In June they met at Viviane’s home, out away from it all in Beaujolais country. Viviane and her husband built their dream house on a secluded acre of land that was (20 years ago) a mere 20 minute non-rush hour drive from Lyon.  It is a lovely home, still away from it all, but no longer 20 minutes from Lyon.  The weather was lovely, and drive through the contryside was pleasant.

First you twist and remove the tail...

Finished entrée

Dawn was in charge of the entrée and chose “Langoustines, justes sautées, vinaigrette à la orange". (Langoustines are large prawns.)  Dawn had just completed a six week cooking course at the Institute Paul Bocuse. Anyway, Dawn was soon showing some of them how to prepare the langoustines (removing tail, head, and shell with legs).  Others were preparing the vinaigrette.  It came together as a beautiful and delicious first course.

Meanwhile, Viviane was leading a group preparing the main dish, Rôti de Porc au Nougat (pork roast

The plat

wrapped around a bar of nougat) with potatoes, apricot chutney, and apricots with spices.  As you can imagine, this kept the rest of the group quite busy.  Luckily, Viviane has a fairly large kitchen that is well-suited for many preparations going on at once.  It certainly looks lovely!


For dessert, Viviane chose Panna Cotta Chocolat Blanc garnished with sugared strawberries and tomatoes.  Also, very delicious!

The group happily ate a leisurely lunch, savoring the fruits of their labor.   They discussed their next monthly papilles en éveil gathering after réentre (return from vacations and to school and normal life in the fall).

Then, after cleaning the kitchen and taking a leisurely tour of Viviane's lovely yard and garden, they got into cars and headed back to Lyon.  It was rush hour and took a good deal more than 20 minuites, but after that lovely day and repast, no one cared.

Author's note:  Brigitte's creation, papilles en éveil, will celebrate its 5th anniversary in the

fall.  What a fun way to meet people from all over the world, learn new recipes, and dine on amazing preparations!  Merci, Brigitte!

 








 

Jazz at the Péristyle

 

The City of Lyon sponsors summer jazz performances on the covered porch of the opera house (known as the Péristyle).   And, here's a view of the Péristyle from outside.  There are three performances a night, they are free and start at 8PM, but you really need to get there by 6/6:30 to get a table. Anyway, we went to some performances last year and just went to the first one of the year. The group we saw is a quartet named "Minor Sing" that plays gypsy jazz.  (For those of you in the Seattle area - think Pearl Django.)

We got there around 6:15, found a table, and settled in with a couple of beers.  (There are waiters and a bar in the Péristyle.)  It’s a good thing we got there when we did because we got one of the last tables.  The place was packed with standing room only!  As you can see from this picture, there isn't much room to spare!  The venue is really a good one – a covered area with open sides, on a large square, with great bus and metro access.  The acoustics are surprisingly good, and the stage is visible from most, if not all, tables.

“Minor Swing” is one of our favorites by Django Reinhardt and Stéphane Grappelli so the group’s name “Minor Sing” gave us an idea of the music they would play.  (Although, the name does make us want to groan when we see or hear it.)  The group consists of a bass, a violin, and two guitars – pretty traditional for this type of jazz.  There are three French men, all university-trained musicians, and a Bolivian who has been playing a guitar since childhood.  They are really quite good and we ended up buying a couple of their CDs! 

After the concert, we walked across the square to catch our C3 bus that drops us off a little over a block away from our apartment.  What a lovely summer evening!  The people of Lyon are very fortunate to have this concert series to enjoy.  We know we will certainly be back to the Péristyle again soon!

Visit to Silk Workshop

Through AVF, an organization we belong to in Lyon, we toured a silk workshop Tuesday.  It was really fascinating to see a huge loom in action!  But, first a little history…

Henry IV, "Good King Henry," was king of France from 1589 to 1610.  (He was actually married in the Cathedral St Jean, here in Lyon.)  And, he gave Lyon an exclusive right to the silk industry.  There is a lot of local history related to the silk business here:  for instance, the rebellions of the Canuts, or silk workers, in 1831, 1834 and 1848 (“Living through work or dying through combat”). And, we are told that we also have the silk industry to thank for Lyon’s many traboules (covered passage ways) that allowed workers to transport their fabric without its getting wet and ruined.  The Croix Rousse area of Lyon became the center of the silk industry, and still has some apartments used by the silk workers.  It was one of these apartments that we toured today.

The silk workers lived and also worked in these apartments.  Really easy commute, but it also meant some very long hours.  Their apartments have very high ceilings with windows from the floor to ceiling.  The size of the workers’ looms ( ~4 meters or 13 feet tall) is the reason the ceilings are so high in these apartments.  Joseph Marie Jacquard revolutionized silk weaving with his system of punch cards that could program a loom to produce a specific design, and these looms are huge.  (The punch cards are not unlike the old IBM cards some of us remember that were used to convey information to a computer.)

Since we arrived very early for the tour, we decided to have a bit of lunch first in a small square.  While eating we were entertained by a class of elementary students (about 3rd grade) who were engaged in a PE class consisting of navigating down a ramp, around traffic cones, and doing relays while on roller skates.  Some kids were pretty good, others had less experience.  Lots of falls and collisions, cushioned by helmets, knee and elbow pads, and other protective equipment.  Everyone seemed to have fun, including the spectators.

Jacquard punch cards

Showing punch cards & loom

Jeanne Le Tourneau's Jacquard looms

The silk workshop we visited belonged to Jeanne LeTourneau (1912-2005), a woman renowned and recognized for her prowess as a Pasmentier, silk weaver of trimmings.  (These trimmings are used on military uniforms,  clergy vestments, formal dresses and cloaks, among many other things.)  She was working 11 hours a day at 14 and kept up that pace into her 50s.  She could operate two huge looms at a time, and was still working at the tender age of 90!  Her Jacquard looms remain in place in the LeTourneau apartment/workshop, and we were able to see them in action.  Very, very impressive!