Civitavecchia Rome – November 9th - 11th

Our cruise ended in Civitavecchia, Rome’s port city.  There we boarded a bus for the ride into Rome and were entertained by a chatty and humorous guide.  (“In Rome those red and green lights at intersections are just Christmas decorations; nobody pays much attention to them.”)  Once in Rome, we got into a taxi for the ride, again complete with a narrated guided tour, to our hotel.  (As a side note, we stayed at the Napoleon Hotel on Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II and highly recommend it.)

The Roman academic Silvio Negro is quoted as saying, “Per conoscere Roma non basta una vita” (in order to know Rome a lifetime is not enough).  Don’t know about a lifetime, but we can assure you three days is definitely not enough!  Our hotel was located within walking distance of many of the well-known “must-sees,” and we did our best to see as much as we could.  But, there are so many things to see that it’s really a bit overwhelming.  People were wonderfully pleasant and helpful – one man even retraced his steps and came back across a street to ask us, in English, if we needed directions because he had noticed that we were pouring over a map. 

We always try to check out some small cafés for local color, food and wine.    So we stopped in a very small, corner café for a light lunch and enjoyed one of those magical moments that make these

The exterior of small café

adventures so memorable.  First of all, neither of us speaks Italian, and no one in the café speaks English so communication was somewhat limited.  The walls of the café were covered with family pictures of weddings, christenings, birthdays, and various certificates and awards, etc. – it was very obviously family-owned and had been for some time.  We each had a glass of wine, and Anna ordered a bruschetta, and when it came,

At the end of the meal...note the
family memorabilia on the wall.

it turned out to be two very large ones.  The owner asked if we liked it, and we said yes.  Then he told us that their specialty was ravioli.  David made polite noises, and, suddenly we were sharing a huge plate of raviolis.  Not what we had anticipated, but who’s going to argue?  They were absolutely delicious!  We gestured our appreciation to the cook (Mom?  Grandma?) with everyone else watching us and beaming.  Well, in for a penny, in for a pound - right?  So, we next had one of those amazing homemade Italian desserts and coffee.  Neither of us was in the least bit interested in dinner that night!

We soon learned that at this time of the year it is not unusual for rain to happen instantly, thoroughly drench everything and everybody, and then disappear. During each rain squall, men appear from out of nowhere selling umbrellas and ponchos; then they disappear when the rain stops.  It’s almost like magic – they are here (everywhere, actually) one minute and gone the next.  It was also in Rome that we learned that the raincoat Anna had bought in Lyon was not sufficient to keep her from getting soaked to the skin.  But, enough of that and on to sightseeing.

One of our first stops was Trajan’s Baths. The site was once a palace built by Nero then Vespasian, Titus, and Domitian took turns building their own edifices on the site. (The Romans definitely

A part of Trajan's Baths

believed in recycling materials, and each emperor, for instance, would make sure his monument either displaced or was greater than the previous ones.)  Then the Emperor Trajan came along and built this enormous (approx. 1,000 ft by 700 ft) bathing and leisure complex.  The facility was used mainly as a recreational and social center by Roman citizens, both men and women, and was in use as late as the early 5th century. 

Circus Maximus

Then we were off in search of the Circus Maximus where the chariot races were held.  Up to 350,000 spectators gathered here to cheer on their favorite teams (four teams raced at a time and each had its own colors).  The teams had to make, or attempt to make, the seven circuits of the track.  It was wildly popular!  It finally was abandoned at the end of the Empire, and became a source of building materials for other structures. 

We, of course, had to see the Coliseum (aka

Anna in front of the Coliseum (and
wearing the "rain coat.")

the Flavian Amphitheater).The Coliseum, as we have all heard, was site of spectacles like wild animal hunts, gladiator fights, re-enactments of famous battles, dramas based on classical mythology, and the occasional execution. It is considered by many to be the greatest monument in the Rome.  And, in spite of numerous earthquakes and fires, it remains impressive today.  We’re told the Venerable Bede said, “As long as the Coliseum exists, so will Rome, and when the Coliseum falls, Rome too will fall; and when Rome falls, so will the world.”  Thankfully, restoration and repairs are ongoing so we should be safe for a while.

To be continued…