Monday, June 9, 2014

Bike Trip Loire - The First Day - May 12


The day dawned overcast and blustery as predicted.  We all met at Roger and Dominique’s to load the car.  At about 8AM, after lots of laughter and pictures, we were off. 
The Happy Bikers - David, Tom, Roger, Gerard


The Loaded Car on its Way
It took about 3-1/2 hours, with a stop for coffee, to reach Nevers.  We quickly found a non-metered parking place on the street and unloaded the bikes, whereupon it began to rain lightly.  Luckily it soon stopped.  We took a shortcut through town to the trail rather than following the trail around the town as we wanted to get some distance down the valley that afternoon.  We had learned to book hotels in advance after the ordeal of last year, and we needed to get to Sancerre by that evening.

It was a bit chill and breezy, but still very scenic as we wound through town and out into the countryside.  After about an hour we reached the small town of Cours-les-Bains on the banks of the old barge canal that parallels the river for much of its length.  We headed for the small restaurant across from the church and ordered a restorative carafe of wine while we pondered our lunch choices.  [It shows how serious Gerard is about his biking, that he, the Frenchman, often had beer rather than wine.  Less alcohol, more hydration.]  For lunch I had barbeque ribs – I was interested in what they would be like in France.  They were good but pretty standard sauce and preparation – I could have been in the US.  Tom had Tartiflette, sort of a large bruschetta with all kinds of vegies, and some meat and cheese on it.  Roger and Gerard had turkey skewers which Gerard pronounced as a bit tough, possibly from a turkey that had been around ‘at the time of Nixon’.

After lunch, we started off again and about 20-30 minutes later it began to rain – hard.  We got wet, but fortunately it stopped fairly soon and we were able to dry out.  We were then able to enjoy the scenery and the trail, much of which was paved and restricted to bikes, pedestrians, and only occasionally an official vehicle or nearby resident whose only access to their farm was along the trail.  The trail often ran along the top of the levee so we had a good view of the river and/or the canal.

Two hours later, rain again threatened, and we decided to take shelter.  Good idea, as rain came down in sheets, but only for a few minutes.  Once it stopped, we were off again.

As mentioned, our first night was in Sancerre, a famous old walled town unfortunately atop a high hill.  Tom and I mostly pushed our bikes up the hill, Gerard and Roger mostly rode.  We stayed at a nice old hotel, the Hotel des Remparts, which as its name suggests was near the remnants of the old city walls.
View of the Loire From Sancerre
David with Hotel Sign at Right
After cleaning up and changing clothes we met in the hotel bar for a glass of the excellent local Sancerre [white] wine, made with the Sauvignon Blanc grape.  We then repaired to the hotel restaurant for dinner and two bottles of excellent Sancerre, which as it turned, out was a bit too much.  [For those who are interested, it was Domaine Bernard Fleuriet et Fils.  For dinner we had the 2012; in the bar we had the 2011, which I thought was a bit better.  Both excellent, however.]
At Dinner - Hotel des Remparts, Sancerre
For the day, we covered 62 km – not bad considering the late start.

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