“Field Trip” to Beaujolais

One of the great things about AVF, the group we belong to in Lyon, is that it sponsors what we call “field trips.”  Our most recent one was to Beaujolais, the once semi-autonomous fiefdom of the Lords of Beaujeu.   Our friends, Dominique and Roger, were kind enough to take us along in their car which made the trip even more enjoyable.  Our day included touring the village of Beaujeu, a delicious lunch, and a visit to a local family-owned winery.

Beaujeu was the ancient capital of Beaujolais region.  Bérard became the first Lord of Beaujeu in

Beaujeu from the air

966, so you can see that it’s been around for quite a while.  The Lords of Beaujeu were once pretty powerful both as politicians and as warriors, and they controlled one of the main transport routes between Paris and the South. At one time they controlled one of the three baronies in France.

Beaujeu now has about 2,000 inhabitants and covers about 1725 hectares (about one-third of which is in vineyards). From those vineyards and vineyards in the surrounding countryside, we get the majority of Beaujolais crus:  Moulin-à-Vent, Chénas, Juliénas, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly, and Côte de Brouilly. The day was cold and clear, and we had time to wander around this picturesque but vibrant village and speak with some of the folks who live there.  As their tourist office says, “Beaujeu, heir of a glorious past, is a small town in France where life is good…. Each year, more and more visitors…are discovering this territory and leave conquered by the beautiful scenery, the friendliness, frank and jovial spirit, simplicity, which are among the virtues Beaujolais.”  Well said!

Church of St. Nicolas

One of the highlights of our tour was the Church of St. Nicolas which was dedicated in 1132 by Pope Innocent II.  It is still in use and very remarkable both inside and out with side chapels and stained glass throughout the interior.  Hard to imagine a building that old still in use when "historic" on the west coast means 18th and 19th centuries! 

 

 

Some of our group at lunch - David is on the left

 and Roger is two seats away

 

Next stop was lunch at a local restaurant.  We had chosen our main courses and desserts in advance at the restaurant's request; both Anna and David chose coq au vin, Anna had tarte au pomme and David had chocolate mousse for dessert.  These courses were part of a many-course lunch that included aperitif, appetisers, salad, lots of fresh bread, and, of course, local wine.  Absolutely delicious and graciously served – no small feat for a large group such as ours.

 

 

In the cellar

And, finally we piled into cars to go to Régnie-Durette to visit the vignerons, Thierry and Cécile Robin.  There we went down into their cellar to taste some of their wines, including Beaujolais Neuveu (just before its release date).  One wall in their cellar is covered with the many awards their wines have won through the years.  Very impressive!  We definitely enjoyed tasting many of their wines – especially in the atmosphere of that rustic cellar.

Then it was back into the car and a very pleasant drive back to Lyon.  With several newly-purchased bottles of wine, bien sûr !