A Visit to Cremieu with AVF (a long post, but with lots of pictures!)

As we have mentioned before, we belong to AVF, an organization set up to welcome both returning French people and expats to France.  We especially enjoy the “field trips” we can take with the group; we learn so much about the history and culture of France and enjoy many experiences (and meals) we would not have access to otherwise.  On May 10^th thirty-five of us climbed onto a bus and were off to visit Cremieu, a village about 15-20 minutes away from Lyon.

Part of the ramparts and
one of the remaining gates.

One of the many streets lined with
old buildings with a
castle on the hill above the town

We were fortunate to have a great guide with a sense of humor who filled us in on history and even a bit of old gossip and legend; she did a great job of bringing old Cremieu to life for us. 

Were three men really hanged here?

One of the bins for grain in
the covered market still in use today.

Cremieu dates back to the 13^th century although the Bene - dictines established a priory on the cliffs above the town sometime in the 12^th century.  It is located in an area that was not originally a part of France and was ruled by the Dauphins of La Tour, who restored the existing royal castle around 1282.  It prospered partially due to its strategic location on primary trading routes – especially those between France and Italy.  It became a major trading center for cereals and grains for France, Savoy, Switzerland, and Italy.  There are still the bins used for measuring grains and filling containers in the covered market which dates from the 15^th century.  This very same covered market is used today for a regular farmers’ market and for special events!  Cremieu was a walled town and still has most of its ramparts and three remaining fortified gates that date back to the 14^th century.  There are also many remaining store-fronts and homes that date back to the 15^th, 16^th, and 17^th centuries.  It is an incredibly picturesque village in a lovely setting!  It’s no wonder that it attracted artists like Corot, Ravier, Daubigny and others in later years.

 

Hotel Restaurant du Val d'Amby

But, our trip did not end with a tour of Cremieu!  We got back on our bus and were soon at the Hotel Restaurant du Val d’Amby where a delicious meal awaited us.  The dining room was opened

Most of our group - enjoying our entrées
 

especially for us and food and service were excellent – it’s no wonder this place is in the Guide Michelin!  As an example, the appetizer (“entrée” in France) included salmon which doesn’t agree with Anna, and although she told them she would be happy to just skip the entrée, they soon appeared with an alternate chicken entrée for her.  And, this was while serving 35 people!  We all totally enjoyed our delicious meals and the very pleasant staff.  (The lady in charge of the dining room made it a special point to tell us how much she had enjoyed her recent trip to California.  Betrayed by our American accents once again!) 


Our main courses were so lovely,
David took a picture of his.

 

And, also our dessert.

Then we were ushered back on to our bus for the next stop, an archeological site a short ride away, near the current town of Pommiers.  The site includes remains of nearly 9000 m² (over 96,000 ft²) of buildings dating from the 1^st through the 4^th centuries AD.apr.   It is assumed this was once a villa and farm since most of the buildings seem to be dedicated to agricultural production and storage,
 
 

View of part of the site
taken from a hill.

 Entrance to a cellar.

including a cellar with wine press-crushing basins and storage areas.  It also included a raised, heated building, a small spa area, and a burial area including a couple of ancient tombs.   The site itself has excellent interpretive signage, was very easy to navigate, and we all spent a good deal of time exploring the area.  It was a little mind-boggling to realize we were walking where people lived and worked over 2000 years ago.  Or, is that just the perspective of a couple of people from the west coast of a country that’s only been around for less than 250 years? 

When it was time to take the short ride back to the very vibrant, large, modern city of Lyon, it seemed a bit like “time travel.”  We are so fortunate to have the ability to take excursions like this one through AVF!   We have both always been history enthusiasts and have tried to take advantage of every opportunity and “field trip”.  Our excursions with AVF have certainly enriched our experience in France and provided us with new perspectives.  We  look forward to going on more of them!

A Very Pleasant Rainy Day Visit to the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon

One of the things we like best about Lyon is that there is always something to do or see – even on rainy, dismal days.  May 13^th was one of those days so we decided to go to one of our favorite indoor places, the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon.

The front of the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon
from Place Terreaux

The museum itself was founded in 1801, but the building it is in was once the Benedictine Abbey of the “Dames Nobles de Saint-Pierre.”  The building was totally renovated in the 17^th century so that these daughters of nobility would have surroundings similar to those to which they were accustomed.  Remnants of Roman buildings have also been found on the site.  The museum covers 7000 m² (over 75,000 ft²⁾ and is four-sided with lovely garden in the center complete with sculptures by Rodin, Bourdelle, and others.  Truly an impressive setting!

A shot of the museum garden

The permanent exhibitions include everything from antique art and objects from ancient Egypt to more modern works by Rubens, Rembrandt, Renoir, Monet, Van Gogh, Gauguin, Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, etc.  In fact it was here that we saw “The Adoration of the Magi.”  A totally amazing permanent collection!

But, this time we came to see a special exhibition titled, “Autoportraits de Rembrandt au Selfie.” The exhibition contains over 130 works from three major European museums.  The works cover the time from the Renaissance period up to the 21st century and include paintings, drawings, prints, sculptures, photographs and videos.  It is absolutely fascinating to see how artists saw themselves and also what was going on around them. The museum arranged the exhibit in seven different sections:

^·          the artist's gaze
^·          the artist in his world (as a nobleman, for instance)
^·          the artist at work
^·          the artist with his peers
^·          role-play (in this area we were given clues to where the artist had included himself in various settings – as a shepherd in the manger scene, for instance)

^·        the artist in his time

^·          the artist's body.


Can you find Rembrandt in this painting?
He's just behind St. Steven.



We definitely had some favorites.  It was fascinating to see how Rembrandt saw himself change as he aged, for instance.  We were impressed with the amazing work done by artists while still in their teens.  And, we were humbled by the number of artists we had never heard of but whose work we liked.

One of Rembrandt's later self-portraits

When we had finished going through the exhibit, we felt like the little boy in school in the “Far Side” cartoon who asked if he might be excused because his brain was full.  It was really a lot to take in and think about and discuss.  It kept us busy on the bus ride back to our apartment and over glasses of wine that evening!

So when (notice we aren’t saying “if”) you visit Lyon, be sure to carve out some time to visit the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon.  And, be prepared to go away with a very full brain!