Wednesday, May 25, 2016

A Visit to Cremieu with AVF (a long post, but with lots of pictures!)

As we have mentioned before, we belong to AVF, an organization set up to welcome both returning French people and expats to France.  We especially enjoy the “field trips” we can take with the group; we learn so much about the history and culture of France and enjoy many experiences (and meals) we would not have access to otherwise.  On May 10th thirty-five of us climbed onto a bus and were off to visit Cremieu, a village about 15-20 minutes away from Lyon.
Part of the ramparts and
one of the remaining gates.

One of the many streets lined with
old buildings with a
castle on the hill above the town



















We were fortunate to have a great guide with a sense of humor who filled us in on history and even a bit of old gossip and legend; she did a great job of bringing old Cremieu to life for us. 
Were three men really hanged here?

One of the bins for grain in
the covered market still in use today.
Cremieu dates back to the 13th century although the Bene - dictines established a priory on the cliffs above the town sometime in the 12th century.  It is located in an area that was not originally a part of France and was ruled by the Dauphins of La Tour, who restored the existing royal castle around 1282.  It prospered partially due to its strategic location on primary trading routes – especially those between France and Italy.  It became a major trading center for cereals and grains for France, Savoy, Switzerland, and Italy.  There are still the bins used for measuring grains and filling containers in the covered market which dates from the 15th century.  This very same covered market is used today for a regular farmers’ market and for special events!  Cremieu was a walled town and still has most of its ramparts and three remaining fortified gates that date back to the 14th century.  There are also many remaining store-fronts and homes that date back to the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries.  It is an incredibly picturesque village in a lovely setting!  It’s no wonder that it attracted artists like Corot, Ravier, Daubigny and others in later years.

 



Hotel Restaurant du Val d'Amby

But, our trip did not end with a tour of Cremieu!  We got back on our bus and were soon at the Hotel Restaurant du Val d’Amby where a delicious meal awaited us.  The dining room was opened
Most of our group - enjoying our entrées
 
especially for us and food and service were excellent – it’s no wonder this place is in the Guide Michelin!  As an example, the appetizer (“entrée” in France) included salmon which doesn’t agree with Anna, and although she told them she would be happy to just skip the entrée, they soon appeared with an alternate chicken entrée for her.  And, this was while serving 35 people!  We all totally enjoyed our delicious meals and the very pleasant staff.  (The lady in charge of the dining room made it a special point to tell us how much she had enjoyed her recent trip to California.  Betrayed by our American accents once again!) 

Our main courses were so lovely,
David took a picture of his.
 


And, also our dessert.






























Then we were ushered back on to our bus for the next stop, an archeological site a short ride away, near the current town of Pommiers.  The site includes remains of nearly 9000 m² (over 96,000 ft²) of buildings dating from the 1st through the 4th centuries AD.apr.   It is assumed this was once a villa and farm since most of the buildings seem to be dedicated to agricultural production and storage,
 
 

View of part of the site
taken from a hill.
 Entrance to a cellar.














including a cellar with wine press-crushing basins and storage areas.  It also included a raised, heated building, a small spa area, and a burial area including a couple of ancient tombs.   The site itself has excellent interpretive signage, was very easy to navigate, and we all spent a good deal of time exploring the area.  It was a little mind-boggling to realize we were walking where people lived and worked over 2000 years ago.  Or, is that just the perspective of a couple of people from the west coast of a country that’s only been around for less than 250 years? 

When it was time to take the short ride back to the very vibrant, large, modern city of Lyon, it seemed a bit like “time travel.”  We are so fortunate to have the ability to take excursions like this one through AVF!   We have both always been history enthusiasts and have tried to take advantage of every opportunity and “field trip”.  Our excursions with AVF have certainly enriched our experience in France and provided us with new perspectives.  We  look forward to going on more of them!

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