4th of July at a French house in a country town

 

One of the best things we have discovered since first coming to France for extended visits in 2010 is connecting with the French.  This includes the first and second owners of the apartment in Lyon we rent each time we visit.  We have socialized and become friends with both couples and have found them delightful people.  [It helps that they all speak very good English!]  Our experience here has been much more interesting and fun because we have a connection with them.  We feel much less like simply tourists and more like residents – residents who have had the benefit of intelligent, pleasant people to help make our lives here so much richer than if we had simply continued to exist as American tourists in a foreign country.

We and the Micallefs [our former landlords] were invited to the Parisots’ [our current landlords] home in a town outside of Lyon for a 4^th of July lunch.  And what a wonderful lunch it was – complete with USA wristbands for all and lighted stars on the table.  The afternoon started with glasses of wine or Champagne with a varied assortment of delicious nibbles.  All accompanied by interesting conversation both as a group and in smaller sub-groups. 

Showing Off Our Wristbands

The Parisots are the proud parents of two charming daughters who told us how they survived the pandemic, how school has been going, and something of what their summer plans are. Lucie, the older of the two, is home from university where she studies Marketing and Communication.  This summer she is working as an intern for an ice cream company (we sampled some for dessert).  She told us that all of her classes are in English.  Things have changed since we last saw her two years ago.  She is a charming, intelligent adult now rather than a teenager, and we enjoyed our conversations with her.  Fanny, the younger of the two, is in lycée (high school), has her learner’s permit and is now driving a car (with Mom or Dad in the car).  She, too, has matured in those two years.  Her English is quite good now, and we enjoyed conversing with her about her plans for future university studies.  You could see how they both were alive to the possibilities opening before them of the ability to be more autonomous, not only because they will not have to always rely on parents or friends if they wanted to go somewhere, but also that their futures are opening up with choices and opportunities.

Our Charming Hosts!

Usually when we have lunch at the Parisots, it is outside, with a view across the fields to the hills beyond.  The weather so far this summer has been a bit strange – very hot when we arrived, but then a lot of cool, rainy days.  In fact, Monday there were almost 2 inches in Lyon.  So, we enjoyed our visit and lunch indoors this time.  Barbecued steak and an assortment of baked fresh vegies, some from their garden.  All accompanied by a delicious Côte Rôtie, one of the best local reds and world-renowned.   

With the cheese and dessert, we had a 1999 Jurancon moelleux, from a region near the Pyrenees, a wine somewhat similar to a Sauterne, but made with two little-known grape varities, Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng.  Well known or not, the wine was delicious!

A Proper 4th of July Lunch in France!

After lunch, Stéphane showed us one of his ‘wheels’, that he rides to and from the train station, carries onto the train, and then after leaving the train, on to his destination. We’ve seen people riding wheels at home, and it was great to get a demonstration of all of its features from an experienced rider. It’s a fascinating item that seems impossible to ride, but it has a gyroscope that helps the rider stay upright.  It would be fun to try it, but discretion may be the better part here.

An Example of a Wheel

After several hours that passed more quickly than seemed possible, the afternoon came to an end.  Thanks again to the Parisots for a wonderful experience!

The Juliette

Another spot we have enjoyed in the past is The Juliette Restaurant et Bar à Cocktails .  It is a short walk down the street from our apartment.  (Rue Moncey, the street our apartment is on, becomes Rue Juliette Récamier in the next block.)  So after dinner one night, David suggested we stroll down and have a glass of champagne.  Anna rarely (never?) turns down an invitation like that, and so we were off.  

Since we have been gone for two years and a Covid pandemic, we were uncertain about what to expect.  Would the staff be the same?  Would the experience be the same? Well when we arrived, the same manager greeted us with a big smile and welcomed us back - in English, no less.  We chose an outside table (great for people watching) and settled back to enjoy our champagne and the scenery.  

Our table was the round one on the far end.

The gentleman at the table next to ours offered to show us the menu on his phone (lots of menus are via QR code these days).  We thanked him and explained that our order was on its way.  (Next time someone tells you the French are rude, you have permission to laugh derissively at them!) 

It's really hard to beat a lovely summer evening in Lyon and a nice glass or two of champagne at a very pleasant establishment like The Juliette!

Anna's Vice

I (Anna) like to think that I have no (okay, few) vices.  However, there does happen to be one temptation that I cannot resist whenever we come to Lyon.  You see, we are a very, very short walk away from Les Halles Paul Bocuse with all its wonderful, delicious, fairly high-end shops. 

                     

Certainly, Mons, our favorite fromagerie is not to be missed.  In fact it's our favorite place to get cheese both for ourselves and to take to dinner at at friends.  (So many cheeses, so little time!)

There are also great butcher shops, seafood merchants and restaurants, a great wine shop, a super green grocer, a bakery, etc., etc.  BUT, my very favorite is Sève.  Their cakes are works of art, and they taste wonderful.  Here are a few to give you an idea:

But, they also make macarons (not macaroons but macarons).  And, macarons in every flavor imaginable.  From mushroom and other flavors to every dessert flavor you could wish for.  Soooooo many choices!  And, as they say, "Succombez à la tentation de nos macarons sucrés !"  (Succumb to the temptation of our sweet macarons!)

And, the very, very best ones are Salted Caramel.   Trust me on that one - or don't, and leave more for me!  I have little will power when confronted with some of these incredibly yummy confections.  Here's my latest purchase:

It actually started out as a box of twelve, but, well, you know....  The person who waited on me actually asked me if I wanted all twelve to be Caramel.  (Definitely not a true believer!)

So, there's my story - or maybe confession is a better descriptor.  I still have two of them left, but, trust me, they won't be there tomorrow night!

 

How to Celebrate a Wedding Anniversary and a Birthday in Lyon

One of our favorite restaurants in Lyon is the Brasserie L'Est.  At one time the late Paul Bocuse decided to have four restaurants in Lyon, each with a different theme, named for the compass points.  Happily, L'Est is an easy walk from our apartment.  

L'Est came into being in 1997 and is located in elegant Gare de Brotteaux building.  The Gare, or train station, itself was built in 1904 by the Paris-Lyon-Mediterranean Company and opened in 1908.  The building style is quite similar to the Gare D'Orsay (now a favorite museum of Anna's) in Paris.  Needless to say, it is classified as an Historic Monument by the French Government.  The station was only in operation until June 1983.  The building now houses a variety of buisnesses including L'Est.

The beautiful and historic Gare de Brotteaux today.  L'Est is

located just to the left of the large building in the center.

A view of L'Est.  We chose to eat outside, 

just in front of the building this time.

Paul Bocuse's theme for L'Est is in keeping with its location.  His idea was to offer "travel cuisine" with a menu that takes one on "a real taste journey."  And, also in keeping with its location, a model train runs on tracks that circle the inside dining room near the ceiling.  All the staff at Bocuse restaurants from the Maitre D' to the Sous-chef undergo rigorous training and are monitored to ensure they meet Bocuse standards.  

Our table

Now you can understand why we chose this restaurant to celebrate our anniversary and Anna' birthday.  We started off with celebratory flutes of champagne - bien sȗr.

For his main course, David chose Grilled Chicken Supreme wrapped with Colonnata Bacon and served with Potato gnocchi.

And, Anna chose from the menu de jour and had a delicious pork chop in a bed of baby potatoes, carrot slices, cauliflower flowerettes, and other yummy veggies.

And, as you can see, we shared a bottle of Gevrey Chambertin A.O.C - Vieilles Vignes - Domaine Tortochot 2018.

Is your mouth watering yet?

Then on to dessert - right?

David had claufoutis de cerise avec  coulee des fruit rouges, a baked French dessert of fruit (cherries here) arranged in a buttered dish, covered with a batter, and baked.  This was covered with a puree of assorted red berries.  

Anna had three scoops of French ice cream - coconut, pineapple, and raspberry.  (French ice cream is incredibly rich with concentrated flavors.)

This was, of course, followed by coffee.  Whew!

But, we weren't done, yet!  David had earlier told a waiter that we were celebrating Anna's  birthday.  Suddenly, two waiters arrived with a small, old-fashioned, hand-cranked, punch-card, music box to serenade her.  All the other diners applauded as Anna turned bright red.  Then a waiter brought her a cup of chantilly with a candle in it.  Rich and delicious!

After thanking everyone for their good wishes, we strolled back to our apartment.  It had been quite the celebration!

An Evening Concert

Our good friends and former landlords, Dominique and Roger, invited us to go to an outdoor concert with them.   The venue was to be the grounds of Villa Monoyer, a large, old home we have all been curious about for some time.  We had peeked at it through its gate as we had walked by, but that was it. As it happens, Dominique's brother is a friend of the owner, and he was kind enough to ask if Dominique, Roger, and a couple of American friends could attend the concert the owner was hosting.  She said yes, Dominique signed us up, printed out our confirmation, and we were good to go.  So, at the appointed hour, we went over to Roger and Dominique's, Roger and David grabbed four folding chairs from their deck, and we walked over.

We were greeted at the gate by the home's owner.  She explained that she lived at the home part of the year and elsewhere for the rest of the time.  The home was actually built in 1902 by her great-grandfather, Ferdinand Monoyer, a noted French Opthamologist who, among other things, invented the Monoyer Chart that continues to be used to test visual acuity today. Here's his original chart.  If you look closely, ignoring the bottom line, then reading upwards from the bottom, Monoyer and Frederick can be seen.

Villa Monoyer is in need of attention but still impressive.  It's surprising to find a house like this with its walled grounds right inside Lyon!

 All photos courtesy of Roger.

After everyone was seated and settled in, our hostess introduced herself, told a bit about the house, and introduced the performer.  We had heard that our hostess opens her place to events from time to time, and that this was a benefit concert for local children's hospitals.

The performer was quite talented and put on a very good show - just singing and accompanying himself on his guitar.  The program consisted primarily of songs by Moustaki, Ferret, and Brassens.  All of us of a "certain age" would feel quite nostalgic hearing this style of song performed.  Just think Pete Seeger, Gordon Lightfoot, Woody Guthrie, Peter, Paul and Mary, the Kingston Trio, etc., etc.  In fact, we were surprised to hear a cover of Bob Dylan's "Don't Think Twice, It's Alright."  Apparently, "N'y Pense Plus, Tout Est Bien" has been quite popular here and has been covered by several different artists and groups.  The translated lyrics were spot on, by the way.

Enjoying the concert.

(Dominique was in this photo originally, but was

 caught by surprise and wouldn't want her look

 saved for prosterity in this blog.)

So what do you do when a light rain starts, and the outdoor concert isn't over?  Rain isn't good for guitars or performers, for that matter!  Well, a member of the audience jumped up with his umbrella, and the show went on!

Fortunately, the rain stopped, and the concert continued until its end time of 9:00PM.  We chatted with folks a bit while Roger and David packed up the chairs, and we headed back to Roger and Dominique's and then "home."     

Another interesting experience and taste of la belle France!  Thank you, Dominique and Roger!