Sunday, June 18, 2023

Day Trip #2 - Grand Site de France Solutré Pouilly Vergisson

Another of our annual rituals is walking up the Roche du Solutré and then enjoying a lovely lunch in the village of Solutré Pouilly.  The word “climbing” would really be inappropriate since one actually follows a trail, complete with some stair steps, to reach the top.  Although, there is a bit of rock climbing at the very top. 

There are actually three of these formations:  Mont de Pouilly (on the right in the photo above), Roche du Solutré (in the middle of the photo), and Roche de Vergisson (on the left in the photo).  These limestone escarpments are also quite interesting from a historical standpoint since it's estimated that humans lived here as long as 7,000 years ago. Together these formations comprise the “Grand Site de France Solutré Pouilly Vergisson.”  La Roche du Solutré is the most popular since it is the one with the groomed path with signage re nature and history, a museum with great history exhibits, a gift shop, and le Café de la Roche.  (It also has some notoriety since former French president François Mitterrand walked up it each Pentecost Day from 1946 to 1995 to fulfill a promise he made to a group of Resistants at the end of WWII.)

The Roche du Solutré is located in the south of the Burgundy Region, a little south and west of Mâcon.  We rent a car for the day and enjoy the drive that takes us north on an “A route” and then off through picturesque villages, farmland, and vineyards.  There is ample parking a short walk from the museum and gift shop and the start of the trail.  The view along the trail is lovely – especially in Spring.  There are lots of wildflowers along the way and spectacular views of villages and vineyards in the distance. 

The village of Solutré Pouilly from the trail.
There are also Konik Polski horses that have been introduced since they resemble some of the prehistoric horses that used to live in the area.  (They also prevent the proliferation of boxwood – an important added benefit.) 
Some of the Konik Polski horses.
The 360 ̊ view from the top is incredible!  The Roche de Vergisson is even more impressive from this viewpoint!   
Anna with The Roche de Vergisson and the countryside behind her.

Then, again, there are vineyards, farms, and villages as far as the eye can see.

After we retrace our steps and get back in the car, we drive the short distance to the village of Solutré-Pouilly and the charming auberge of La Courtille de Solutré.  We accidently discovered this auberge during our first trip to the Roche du Solutré.  It appears to be the only restaurant in the village.  Our first lunch there was incredible, and lunch there has become a part of our Roche du Solutré excursion ever since. (We have since noted the many red, yearly Michelin signs on the front of the restaurant.  Reservations are highly recommended!)

Our table was just to the left.
We requested a table on their patio this year since the weather was very pleasant.  As always, the service, wine selection, and food were wonderful.  (Somehow, ordering from a menu on a large blackboard adds to the ambiance and experience.)  
David enjoying our appetizer at our table on the patio.

                                                 So, here's what we had:

David had Rôti de filet de bœuf français brioché,
                          petits légumes, Os à moelle gratiné, avec sauce béarnaise -                                              Beef filet with sauce bearnaise, baby vegetables, and beef bone with marrow.

Anna had the Cocotte de Porc - Casserole of pork,
slow cooked with fresh garden vegetables


Anna's dessert was garden-fresh berries and a pastry with a creamy filling.
 
David's dessert was Moelleux au chocolat - a chocolate pastry with a molten center.

After lunch we made a quick detour next door to “The Atrium,” a small wine shop to purchase a few bottles of wine from Domaine Thibert, a favorite, local, family-owned winery.  We then drove through the countryside a bit before getting back on the “A Route” and our drive home. 

It is so nice to be able to enjoy these lovely experiences so close to our Lyon “home”!

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