Annual visit to Viviers – Part 2

Anna at entrance to Aubignas

Since Madame had so highly touted Aubignas, we thought we should check it out.  It was once a busy place with basalt mines and a factory that created a variety of building materials – all of that is gone now.  Just outside of town, we walked through a self-guided exhibit complete with pictures, timelines, and examples of basalt and products to illustrate the village’s past. 

What remains is a charming, sleepy, residential village. (Not even a store or restaurant!) The village is surrounded by its medieval ramparts and includes a castle.  It was built on a promontory for defense purposes – this was a fortress castle!  Of particular interest is the 11^th century church that was once actually the private chapel of the lord of the castle.   




 

Castle at Aubignas

The village lavoir - one place to wash clothes,
one to rinse them, and one for cattle to drink from.

Probably the newest thing in the village is the town bell; it seems the sexton was so energetic ringing the bell to announce the armistice that the original bell was broken.  Even in this small, remote place we had a conversation with a gentleman who was pleased to tell us about his trip to the US and visits to San Francisco, Boston, Philadelphia, and New York.  (We have always been warmly welcomed when folks learn we are Americans!)

The 1st Alba la Romaine as it looks  today

After visiting Aubignas, we drove to Alba la Romaine.  There are actually two Alba la Romaines!  The first one was a Roman provincial capital which now sits in the middle of vineyards and farm land.  It is unique among the Roman ruins because it wasn’t a large, rich city like most of the ruins that have been discovered and lends itself to the discovery of what everyday life might have looked like 2000 years ago.  Excavation and study continue, and we were very impressed with the excellent museum on site. 

The impressive museum.

Outside the museum there is a walkway with placards explaining the parts of the Roman town and including drawings of what the structures must have looked like.  As we left, folks we getting ready for a musical performance in what remains of the Roman theater.  The Romans built things to last!

Opening through city wall in
 "new" Alba la Romaine.

Our next stop was across the road and up the hill to the “new” Alba la Romaine.  We had been there very briefly before and knew there was a lot more to see.  This village dates back to the 13^th century.  The medieval city was constructed in an arc around a castle, and parts of the old city wall remain. 

David and our lunch choices on the chalk board.

We had a pleasant, relaxed lunch outside at a local café.  That is, we were outside until a sudden rain squall sent everyone running inside.  The rain stopped as quickly as it came, and we wandered over to the tourist office for a brochure to guide us in our walk around the village.  In addition to the remains of the castle (now privately owned), there are houses dating back to the 14^th – 16^th centuries, interesting bas reliefs from the 1500s, and a clock tower erected in the 1600s. 


View of the front of the café -
that's Anna sitting at the table.

After our walk, we stopped at a local tavern for a cold beer on the front porch while we watched two men playing boules.  Very French and very picturesque!  Then it was time to head back to the auberge to freshen up and get ready for another delicious dinner.

Watching a game of boules.

There are many, many lovely small villages to visit in France, and we have only sampled a small number of them.  However, if you are ever driving south along the A7 and want to stop for a very pleasant break, we highly recommend you cross the Rhone on D86 and check out Le Relais du Vivarais.  Do make reservations and then get ready for a delightful stay or just a delicious meal.  And, be sure to say hello to Madame for us!