AubrysInFrance: Cadoles et Sens

Each year the fine people in Beaujolais invite folks to “oubliez le stress de la ville l’espace d’un moment” ( forget the stress of the city for a moment) in a weekend of wine tasting and dining. This tasting and dining has an extra feature – one walks through the picturesque countryside from one small winery to another in a specific route to do that tasting and dining. This event is called “Cadoles et Sens” (Cadoles are small huts, often built of rock, that were built in vineyards to shelter vineyard workers and also for storing tools. Sens meaning one’s senses.) And, we make it a point to participate whenever we are in Lyon at the right time.

The central square in Cogny where the fun started.

This year it was the weekend of June 3rd and 4th, and our friends Roger and Dominique planned to go with us. Dominique had to back out at the last minute to report for Grandma duty because their grandson broke his arm. So while she flew off to Ireland, the three of us “soldiered on.” We had chosen the “Balade Gourmand” option which meant we were served a meal course along with wine at each stop and had two guides to lead us and give us information along the way. One guide filled us in on the history and heritage of the places visited, and our second guide told us about the wine region, grape varieties, vine culture and wines to be tasted. The village of Cogny was our starting and ending point in our circuit. We checked in, got our wine glasses, connected with our guides and fellow participants, and were on our way.

Wine glasses in hand - ready to taste.

As we wandered through the countryside, our vigneron guide gave us information about the soil, grape types, vine age, etc. Since he has his own vineyard in the area (here the winemaker often not only grows the grapes but also makes the wine), he definitely knew his subject. At each winery (fairly small, typically family-owned) we were able to hear from the vignerons themselves and engage them and our guides in further conversations.

With our history and area guide.

Our vigneron guide.

But, remember there was also food at each stop! At our first winery we were served our “Mise en bouche” or appetizers, Verrine de rillette d’ecrevisses au fenouil, Ceviche de crevettes, piquillos farcis au fromage de chèvre - a dish prepared with crayfish with fennel, then shrimp ceviche, and finally peppers filled with chèvre cheese. Along the appropriate wine pairings, of course – in this case a nice Cremant, or sparkling wine!

Here are some of the scenes along the way:

Some of the scenery - vineyards.

More scenery - the village beyond the field.

David and Roger on a path through the woods.

Another scenic view

Then we moved on to our next family-owned winery and our “Entrée” or 1^st course. Here we had Terrine de brochet et écrevisses dorées au four, sauce cocktail et lit de mesclun - terrines of pike and shrimp brochettes with cocktail sauce on a bed of mesclun (a salad green). Again, with the appropriate wine pairings. Off again to our next stop…

One of the cellars

Arrivng at another cellar. That's our guide on the
right with Roger behind him.

Inside a cellar with old wine making equipment.

Another scene in a cellar - with old wine barrels.

Hearing about the wine from a vingeron.

A vingneron ready to lead a tasting.

An old wine press - how on earth
did they get it into this cellar?

Then came our “Plat” or main dish of Filet Mignon rôti au miel, pommes de terre rôties au romarin, poêlée de légumes primeurs - filet mignon roasted with honey, potatoes baked with rosemary, and fresh vegetables. This was a proper “sit down dinner.” Yes, you guessed it; all this was served with appropriate wine pairings – very nice wood-aged Beaujolais reds. We should note that the vignerons were quite generous with their pours.

Enjoying the plat.

Next came the “Fromage” or cheese course. We’re in France – remember? Lots of cheeses! And, yes, with wine.

And, finally, Dessert – “Cadole chocolatée” a delicious chocolate dish prepared by the local “Patisserie Chirat Denicé.” The wine served with this dessert was fairly substantial and definitely up to the challenge.

From here we waddled back to the Cogny village square to do a bit of sightseeing, purchase some of the wines we had tasted, and check out the booths where people were selling various locally-made products.

Here are some scenes in charming Cogny: